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  • Question for NDDan about floor mod

    First the pictures you see on web site need to be updated. I have found an easier way and it even makes for better transition into rear feed with feeder at very low position. Might be with your row head that feeder gets carried higher thus more favorable feed angle between chains. My kit includes about everything you need except for tail end of front feed which I suggest you replace with factory replacement out of R65-75. I suggest you replace this with R65-75 floor for it is 1_4" thick and has more favorable seal location. I can provide this floor also but I prefer you support your dealer and let him know what you are up to. Kit for your combine with three strand chain sells for $425. It comes with fillers panels for between poly skids, front 18" of rear feed floor, and a bunch of odds and ends. Kits for four strand systems don't need the filler panels for between poly skids so it sells for $250. 18" replacement floor w_o hump is 1_4" thick hot rolled flat iron. Now here's the kicker. I just realized last winter (thanks to a visit to Australia and some very good conversation with dealers and farmers) that Gleaner lengthened tail end of front feed in '93 by 2". So far I find all '92 and prior machines have shorter floor. All '93s I have measured are longer. The thing about this is the longer the floor is the more it directs straw toward center of rear feed tension drum with feeder at low position. If you measure your '93 and find it to measure 11" from strip that holds seal on to channel iron support you would have long floor. Newest floor plans have shortening tail end of front floor by 3" (which is 1" shorter than '92 and prior machines) and then tilting it down 1_2" from currant location. With these new plans the transition is great and I have omitted tilting front of rear floor. I still prefer replacing front of rear floor with a section without hump but have a couple ready to go for next year with hump still in. You might read between the lines on an option for you with your allready installed 1_4" rear floor!!! Drop me an email and I'll forward you some pictures of shortened floor. I'll try get latest info on website soon.

  • #2
    So I assume this means since I already installed the new thicker rear floor that your new method of shortening the front feeder floor and dropping it down might be enough help so I could keep the rear floor as it isIJ Is this rightIJ I always thought the transition area was the weak spot on these machines and removing the hump makes a lot of sense. Forgot to mention that we did put the w rings on the rear feed drum as well as the front feed drum if this does create a material flow issue. I think the rear drum is an 8 inch one also,whatever was standard with the machine, but I would have to check. We also have front and rear feed shocks. Have you seen Agco's version of the floor mod in a new 5 series machine yetIJ

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    • #3
      You have it right. Yes I also prefer hump is removed but the most important thing is the projected line of material leaving front feed to enter under rear feed. This is an area ahead of the hump. By shortening front floor we gain alot of room for material to drop and get under rear feed. We gain even more by droping tail end of shortened floor by 1_2". The projecting line of crop flow makes best shot at getting under rear chain threw large range of feeder heights this way. W-rings do cause chain to run on larger diameter but not enough to make large difference. You would have eight inch drum in that '93 machine for 7" didn't become an option until 2000 or later. I prefer 7" for it will allow the most room under drum for crop flow. If you don't want that much room you can allway shim top pad to keep it down. In all my trials over the years I've never found where drum raising to high has gave me any trouble. Greatest find was tilting tail end of floor and then we improved on that. No I have not seen factory tilted floor. If your wondering what they did I would say I'm 99% sure tail end of front floor is original length and tilted down 3_4". Front of rear floor has hump removed and tilted down 1". No worries though because there are hundreds out there just like this and working absolutely great in very tough conditions. The new brocher is on agcoiron.com now and there is a graphic of the floor improvement. It doesn't show where tail end of front floor was lowered which would have helped you understand how the crop leaves front feed at better angle to get under rear feed. Maybe they'll have poster setup at the shows that will point this out more clearly. No worries though for I think most guys just need to see this has been upgraded. We just got in a machine from outside the area that stands about 10" higher than most machines around hear. It has 20.8x42s with 4" axle risers. This machine will get all the tricks including 7" posi-feed drum and the solid rear feed shaft. If that isn't enough to feed the monster while cutting on the ground we'll give it the 20% speed up pulley that latest machines have. Have a good day

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      • #4
        Not to open a can of worms, But here goes. How are the pivoting feeder floors working outIJ

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        • #5
          No problem. I'll cut and paste one email I got. This guy has 20.8X42s on machine so it stands high with steep aproach of feeder to ground. Same reports from about a dozen other machines with tilted and hinged floors. Currant floor tilt job is much easier to do and likely works equally as well so that is what we are going with. Dan, Just a note to let you know how the floor kit worked. We have finished cutting wheat here in Pa. We cut over 300 acres with that machine in wheat ranging from 70 - 130 Bu. per acre. It was all cut on the ground or a max of 4 inches off the ground. We cut wheat in moisture from 20% to 12% with lots of green straw. Some of it was lodged. WE DID NOT PlUG THE FEEDER HOUSE OR AUGER ON HEADER 1 TIME! The floor kit performed flawlessly! We had a new 30 Ft. 8200 flex head on this machine with full finger auger. The head fed beautiful with the full finger auger. No more crop laying on knife in front of auger.

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          • #6
            We have the same problem. Our rear feed floor in our 1998 R72 is shot. local Gleaner dealer said to contact Hurrt Implement that they made a repair kit. This sounds like what you are talking about. I have been on the Hurrt website but haven't found any pics or info so I guess I'll call.

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            • #7
              You should be able to click on combines and then follow upgrades. There are a couple pictures you can click on but you will only get breifing on floor mods. You'll get instruction sheets with floor kit. You'll get latest info with kit. hurttequipment.com

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              • #8
                Dan, when you install the floor mods did you put angle iron reinforcements underneathIJIJIJIJ Also, I'll need a kit for a 97 R-62, did you say you had the kits or agcoIJIJ

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                • #9
                  We don't add any reinforcement and only weld the top side. As far as I know I'm the only one building the kits for shipping and resale. A few guys have copied kits for their numerous machines. I would suspect AGCO will make kit with instructions sometime but so far AGCO is forwarding inquiries to me. Catch you later.

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                  • #10
                    Yes I overlap the rear of new 1_4" floor onto existing floor no matter the thickness of existing floor. There is no problem with room back where floor overlaps. I do send a shim for under the bottom pad if chain it rubbing or ticking on floor when empty. Sometimes a second shim is needed per side due to various size feeder drums, various drum block sizes,ect. I like the blocks set for MAX lift and then shim bottom pad so chain clears floor by 1_4 to 1_2". If you are using 8" tention drum with the W-rings I would suggest the drum stop mod per my instructions with kit. I don't know what AGCOs floor piece looks like. I would imagine it is a full replacement piece with no hump like the humped one you put in. Maybe there are two P_Ns for it for I could swear some dealer told me that AGCO had a replacement piece 18" long just like mine. I have no idea if AGCO will come with there own kit someday.

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