Combines 1420 Concaves and rotor

Well Shep Va, you will probably get several different opinions for answers. Use a little objectivity when viewing each one. One place to check on parts is to click on the icon bar over to your left that says "attachments". Another one is, Shoup. You can try stewart steel in canada. There are more, so do some searching and asking around. On wich concaves to run, if you are on a really tight budget, there are ways to make one type of concave work. Most will say you need a couple different combinations. Depending on where you are located, I would rather let someone with experience closer to your area comment further on that. If your rasp bars are worn down to where you have hardly any groove left in them, you should replace them soon. New rasp bars, or ones in good condition will make the crops you have thresh much easier. The seperator bars are fairly easy and inexpensive to replace, but if have to, you may be able to straighten them depending on how bent they are. To get a good look at the impellers, lower the header and remove the sheilds right above the feederhouse. You should see a half moon shaped cover that is bolted in. Take it off and look inside. There you will see your impeller blades and transition cone. look around in there for any holes that may be worn through and any vanes that are broken or missing, or just plain worn out. The impellers, again, there are several opinions here. There is an impeller called Marlin impellers that some will swear by. I like them, but some also dont like them for their use. If the edge of the ones you have is worn round and maybe looks like it has even worn in towards the center a bit, you can rebuild them or buy rebuilt ones if you wish. The wear plate that is connected to them is also very imortant. If you have the owners manual, it will be of great help to you for finding basic settings and advice on which concaves to use. If you read down this message board a ways you'll find several different things to check over and advice on how to fix it. Even though most are for a different size machine, the basic principle still applies to yours. I wish you good luck with your machine and hope it does well for you.

Call Me if you like. I have rebuilt hardfaced concaves and all other wear parts for your machine. Ask for Don at Estes Mfg. Co. 1-800-235-4461.

Thanks for the comments. I am learning a lot about this machine. I am going to have hoober in PA rebuild my concaves and then try to get another set for running grain. Thanks for your comments, I learned a lot. Adam

For your crops you can probably get by with one set of concaves. I would try the large wire style with every other wired pulled out of the third one. Then, use three cover plates in barley and two cover plates in beans. Always install cover plates starting from the front. No cover plates for corn. In beans and corn you will want 3 keystock grates, and that's worth a try in the barley also. I would retard the vanes over the grates for corn and try the mid position for beans and barley. Hopefully, with this setup you can avoid having two sets of concaves and grates and the labor of changing them between crops. I would use the smooth separator bars.

That is what we have been doing to this point. I have been running the same concaves for grain and corn with all the wires in all three and no cover plates. The back three grates are all keystock grates and I have never changed them either. So far I thought the machine was doing well, but I think it can do better if I set the concaves up better. Have never run coverplates, so I will check into that some. I talked to hoober about running different front concaves, maybe one, maybe two in the small grain depending on how hard the thrash is. I guess the same can be accomplished by putting cover plates over the front twoIJIJIJ That seems easier to do and cheaper.. Ok, you are talking about retarding the vanesIJIJ educate me a little on that one.... I do run smooth seperator bars now, they are worn pretty bad, so I am going to replace them and see if that helps any. Thanks for your help, I am learning a lot about this machine for sure.....

Probably the most compelling reason to change concaves would be excessive return volume. If you can open the lower sieve enough to keep the return volume down, yet have a clean enough sample, it's kind of hard to justify swapping hardware in my opinion. The vanes are helical strips of metal up above the rotor. After the crop goes past the concaves, the front vanes move it rearward as it goes over the top of the rotor. Over the concaves you probably want the vanes in the mid position. The vanes over the grates determine how many times the crop passes over the grates before exiting the rotor. By retarding them in high yielding crops you can reduce your rotor loss. In cereal grains you may need them in the mid position to keep from getting excess MOG on the chaffer. Slowing the front vanes down can chew up a lot of HP, but it's not so noticable in the rear vanes.