Combines 1440

I have a 1640 don't think its much different than a 1440 but to your Shaft Monitor problem we where taking wheat off about 4 years ago everything was working fine put the machine in the barn for the night and next day the monitors where dead well traced it down and found a mouse or rat had chewed thru a Ground wire for the monitors during the night This wire was located in the access panel on the ladder side of the cab right under your side window wire shield was still intact on one side so at first all looked ok but grab and gave all the wires a tug and sure enough it snapped apart harness is a bit on the short side hard place to work soldered it back together and used liquid wire shield and taped it hope this helps u out and the clunk sound is it coming from your return elevator IJ theres a steel paddle that keeps the elevator clean it makes a noticable clunk at lower Rpms

According to the page below, the 414 in the 815 was rated at 128 hp. It says the 436 in the 1440 was rated at 135 hp. So that isn't a lot of differece, though the 436 is likely to have more torque as well. You could probably turn up the fuel pump on the 414 and make up the differece. I'm assuming you either alreay have the 414 or can get it cheapIJ In that case, it should work. Otherwise, if you're paying for it, I would try to find a 436 out of a 1440 or a 436DT out of a 1460.

Forgot to add that if you go with the 414 out of the 815, you could always get an exhaust manifold and turbo setup off of a 1086, if you wanted more power.

Becareful adding a Turbo to a non Turboed 414 engine. Some of them like in the 966 tractors didnot have piston cooling nozzles. Turning them up too much and adding a turbo can easily scuff a cylinder under heavy loads.

Go for it ,i have a close friend that did the same thing several years ago and has had no problems it is a little weaker than my 1440, but id do the same thing if i already had one. i once had a 1420 and he had a little more power than it. good luck.

I had a 1984 1440 that I put a turbo on and I put oil jets in the crank shaft which you have to do. Boy it had the same power as a 1460. It did smoke alot and that was because I did'nt put a 1460 head on it. I never had any trouble though.

engine will fit, but you will have to use the 1440 radiator or adapt the larger oneout of the 1480. these engines start leaking around the sleaves because of poor antifreeze mantenence. get a antifreeze check strip (not for temp) and check the molibate and other acid levels in antifeeze in the donor 1480 before going to all this trouble it could be about to do the same thing. always use distilled water and antifreeze and change the filter every year it has conditioner in it to fight these corrosions also protects head gascket.if you swap engines get an extra temp gauge so you can watch it closer.

I just adjusted the rpms on my 1460 after I had the tach calibrated. To turn it up, remove the fwd acorn nut on the left side of the pump. loosen the 7_16 lock nut and turn the rod ccw with a small screw driver to increase rpms. One turn is about 80-90 rpms. I don't know anything about who much you can turn it up, I set mine by the book. It is a tight space and you might need a mirrow to see what your doing.

wilddog, he wanted ponys not rpm's. to turn up hp, he'll need to adjust the screw under the rectangular cover on top of the inj. pump. i can't remember which way for sure, i'm thinking ccw to increase hpIJ

Yes, you do turn it ccw, but if the engine doesn't have a turbo put on you won't gain much except more exhaust smoke and an increase in fuel usage.