Combines 1660 rotor removal

The rotor will slide out with very little help. leaving a couple concaves and grates in will help support it as it slides out. Some lay 2X4's on the concaves to give it something smooth to slide on,and I have heard of using a sheet of tin. A forklift is probably the best thing to remove it.A loader,engine hoist,or overhead hoist can also work;what ever is available. If I were you,I would plan on replacing the rear coupler while you have it out.They make an improved one,and if your's is original,just replace it and forget it. A come-along works good to pull the rotor back in.Hook to the back grate and on one of the impellers. You will need to support the back end with blocks in order to line up the shaft and coupling again. I have done it entirely by myself with basic farmer tools and I have done it with an IH mechanic running the forklift,so there is no right or wrong way as long as you don't get hurt.Good luck.

Sweed,Thanks for the tips, weight is the big factor in this project!! Im putting on a new cone and front bearing and only lack replacing the rear coupler from going as deep into repairs while Im this close. But how necessary is it to replace the rear coupler IJ Do they generally show fatigueIJ

I think the rubber bushings fatigue over time.Someone who is smarter than I could elaborate more,but I thought it is generally considered the thing to do when the rotor is out after an extended time.Either way,don't forget to lube up the rotor gear box shaft and the coupling with Never-Sieze before you reassemble.Also,crawl up inside the cage and change or straighten any damaged vanes.

If you have'nt done so already, remove the top cover from the rotor gearbox doghouse. lay a chunk of large diameter pipe, about 3" dia. or so across the main compartment opening. I'd put down acouple of 2x4s under the pipe so it does'nt dent the sheetmetal. Now you can hook a cable hoist to the pipe and the rotor and let it out easy. Then when you reinstall it will have an upward lift to it so it slides along esier. If you can put a piece of tin or plastic between the cable hoist cables and the rotor housing so the cable dont get damaged by the sharp edge. While you're this far check the output shaft seal. If its wet, replace it now while you have the chance. Give the cage a good inspection, any fatigue cracks and worn bolt heads should be delt with. When you replace or rebuild the rotor drive coupler, only use american made grade eight bolts to to reinstall it. DONOT use import bolts. You'll probably notice when you take it apart that some or all the origanal bolts are bent or nearly sheared off. Alot of the time this is the cause of that unidentifyable vibration that comes and goes from time to time. If the bolts are bent it cause extra stress on the rubber bushings. So definately replace the bushings at minimum no matter how good they may look. When you take the front bearing support off the rotor, please count and wright down the placement of any shims. The shims should be about the same from rotor to rotor, They are there more for tooling tolerances in the superstructure. When you reinstall the rotor I would'nt use power equipment to push it onto the splines. A cable hoist on each side of the bearing support seems to work well. When you replace the cone make sure your feederhouse fits the cone opening proper. I've came across some that needed some "adjustment" to keep the feederhouse from binding. If they are too tight it make you feederhouse seal fail quickly. Sometimes the spring door uder the feederhouse will not seal corectly either. Above all else, like swede says, just dont get hurt. If its your first attept at this, the rotor can be an awkward thing to deal with. Keep safety first.

Well the rotor is out it took about 2 hours. Thanks to all for your thoughts they helped a lot. There was a point I considered not completely removing the rotor and changing drive inside cage but saw some worn bolt heads and decided to take all the way out, good thing several bolts were completely missing in the top of rotor cage as well as a few bent vanes.