Combines 1660 strickly for soybeans

swede

Guest
I'm surely not the smartest one here,but I'll jump in first. Start at the very front with the feeder chain;serrated bars are better,if you have bolt on cross bars,try putting in a serr. one every 3rd bar or so.Extend the feeder chain by adding links so that the front drum is further ahead and closer to the auger. Impellers and wear bars;need a sqare edge on the front and across the top to grab the crop and not let it slip by and wad up.If yours are rounded a little,you can square them up yourself with a body grinder.Keep in mind keeping the rotor in balance when you go adding or removing metal on one or more.You can get rebuilt ones reasonable. You didn't say which style rotor;makes all the difference.Forget the standard rotor if you want to fly in beans.Use the spec. or try one of the modified ones on the market.I'm in the process of changing my stand. one to the St.Johns style with only straight bars on it. Concaves;I'm using the round-rod concaves for corn and beans made by Harvest Services.JD and NH both use this style in their corn-bean rotors. Vanes;depends on which style rotor you have whether your vanes should be retarding or advancing the crop in the front half.Back half,advance them all the way providing all the beans have been separated and get that trash out of there.Although if you are using Disrupters,the faster you move the crop,the less it will get cut up. Don't know much about sieves,I use what I have,but have been leaving the bottom one open more to get more air up . Just have the standard fan,seem to get along. Hope this is clearer than mud.
 
 
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