Combines 1680 auger

Most aftermarket parts are built and perform as well and at times better than OEM parts, it's just that overhead at aftermarket manufacturers are not nearly what they are at the mamoth companies that have manufacturing plants all over the world, plus no union costs. The saving is passed on to customers.

Pat, On the 1680 that hex shaft is welded in the front auger and than slides into the back auger. If you have never broken that hex shaft you will someday. When I had 1680s I broke four of them. Whenever that breaks the back auger stops tuning but the front auger continues to turn and the grain folds back the flighting on the front auger. They have an update that you can put on your machine to make it like the 2188s and newer, but I think you will have to change the front auger. On the newer models the hex shaft is not welded in either auger, it just floats between the two. I've never broken one of them. K.A.

it appears the shaft can move a little in the front auger, but doesn't want to come out easily - would this be typical of the welded in style (or a stuck floating style-I can not see any welds)IJ BTW an unfortunate collision with a field cultivator has necessitated this change (I should have been looking up),so the hex shaft is bent. I assume I'm going to have to replace the front auger if the shaft goes with it. Thanks again

Pat, If you can move that shaft a little I think you have the updated style. Would it work to cut the shaft off and then drive it into the hole far enough to give the new shaft enough room to go in there. Just a thought if you're going to have to buy a new front auger anyway it won't cost anything to try that. K.A.

weld a nut on it and pull out with slide hammer. it seems to me that new style break also. not perfect fix. make sure new hex fits nice and loose. we weld washer on hex shaft to keep it captured between shafts or augers. instead of drillimg auger. one of the kits even has a weld in bullet for the front auger. but usally ager needs changed anyway.