Combines 1680 transition cone

Combineman, Here is a couple of thoughts. If there is a hole worn on the lH side you can weld a patch over that area and fix it fine. If you have areas 3or4 inches long all around the cone where material is actually gone you can fill in with a wire welder. But if you want to replace it I use a forklift with brackets that slide over the forks and a chain and binder to pull the rotor. A tractor and loader or heavy skidloader will work fine also. Good luck.

We put a cone in our '89 1680 last year. It's not too hard although it is a tight fit and a little tricky getting all the holes lined up right. We used a cherry picker and manpower to remove the rotor and then the cone. We never take the front bearing and plate off the rotor until it is laying on the shop floor. While you have the rotor out you should also check the rubber bushings and splines on the back hub. As to the cone my advice for what its worth is to be sure to go back in with the bolts that have the extended wear heads. They're high priced but IMHO well worth the extra $$$.

we just changed our cone. to get the rotor out we slide a sheet of tin about 1_8th size by about 2 foot across in a curve shape under the rotor to stop it catching the concaves, the we used a loader with pallet forks to take the weight of the front plate that holds the rotor bearing and slide it out to within about 1 foot of coming out slide the forks further under the front plate so the bearing is hard up to the forks and place a 4 foot length of timber or pipe across under the rotor as far along as you can on the tip of the forks. put a rope around the bearing end of the rotor this will stop it tipping up when the weight comes on. You should be able to get it out without getting to close we put it back in in the reverse order. we put a loweren cone in and it was real tight but it depends on what you use

The ones I've done used a loader, forklift, skidloader. leave bearing plate on like everyone said, and run forks or loader under plate. Back up and rotor should start coming, muzza had good idea putting stuff over concaves, once rotor is out far enough we alls took a chain and ran from the top of loader or forklift to the back of rotor and hook on seperator bar bracket or rear most rasp bar, this will control the rotor and not let it fall, usually removed center grate to hook chain and help in reinstallation. When reinstalling, remove cover where rotor driven pulley and gearbox are, this will allow you to see rear of rotor coming into shaft out of gearbox, if need lifting take a pipe over opening where you go down in the engine compartment and a comealong, hook one end to end of rotor other to pipe and lift rotor. To take cone out cut bolts with torch around inside, heads are probably worn off anyway. Two bolts on each side in front. Usually used cherry picker and lot of prying to get cone installed good luck.

Another thing to check out but cost a little more than a patch, but a lot less than OEM cone, and only has one seam weld instead of the 5 the OEM has, so will not wear out as soon, is the cone manufactured by loewen.

OEM CONES ARE NOT All MADE IN SECTIONS. THERE ARE SEVERAl VERSIONS AVAIlABlE. MOST POPUlAR ONE IN MY AREA IS PART NO 348501A1 THAT lISTS FOR 1358.97. THIS IS A HEAVY DUTY SEAMlESS CONE WITH HD STAINlESS STEEl VANES AND HD HARDWARE. OEM CONES ARE AVAIlABlE IN PRICES RANGING FROM 795.00 FOR PART nB92771 TO 2529.91 FOR A CONE MADE OF HEAT TREATED AR235 WEAR RESISTANT STEEl WITH HD STAINlESS STEEl VANES. SEE YOUR DEAlER.

Thanks for everybodys information.Its nice to have a web site where you can ask these questions and get experienced answers back.

Here's some late advice . . . but better late than never, rightIJ Take the top cover off before you start. Attach comealong to bar accross engine compartment. Make rub bar per old IH specs. After supporting bottom of rotor with something that will roll, let it out with comealong. Comealong is now there to pull it back in. When rotor is just beyond 1_2 way point, take support off front end and attach with chain around balance point. on a standard (if i remember right) that's near center of spiral rasp bars. little further back on one w_only 2 ears i'd guess.

After you install new cone, weld a bead on the front side of each bolt with hardsurfacing rod. This will deflect material over the bolt head and greatly reduce wear.