Combines 1982 N7 P1 Questions

laynekeefe

Guest
I am needing some help from those of you with lots of combine_wheat harvest knowledge. Earlier this week a close friend of mine was killed in a car accident. Instead of another floral arrangement, I would like to purchase a book to donate to our local small town library in his name. This way his family has a somewhat timeless memorial in Dereks name. His passion was wheat harvest and combines, more specifically Gleaner combines. Could anyone help me find a nice book on the subjectIJ Please email me with any suggestions. Thank you so much for your help. laynekeefe
 

Ed_Boysun

Guest
try the link. Sorry to hear about your friend. Ed in Montana
 

Tom_Russell

Guest
Meanwhile back to combines---I dont do the crops you have so it is probably best to wait for someone else who does.
 

NDDan

Guest
We remove cage sweeps completely along with overfeed auger and trough. With stacked or shimed helicals with green stem kit added there will be less ground up straw on outside of cage for cage sweep to try keep swept clean. Channel helicals will help the same way only better. We keep spring wheat covers on both sides of left concave arm and the far right one when sweep is removed. Another plus is to build a wall between thresher and seperator side just above the left concave arm to prevent straw from hanging up and building. Extending cylinder bars into discharge on a P1 has been done by St. John welding on their enclosed and others have done with standard rotor. It certainly isn't a bad idea but would be plenty of work on your old rotor. A couple helicals would need to be extended partway into discharge also to get full benifit. I would go all forward cylinder bars and use stationary rasp bar in belly of seperator side or peg bars to control possible losses. I doubt hi-low bars will hurt you but my opinion would be you would be better off with every other seperator bar shimmed closer to cage by approx. 1_4" in your crops. I'm sure you have read about adding two more discharge paddles at end of rotor which would be good if you don't extend cylinder bars. And don't forget you need discharge beater (if you don't have chopper) to keep straw removed from rotor. That may include modifing blades on beater to accept the new style blades with knotched side outward. Make sure blades clear floor by at least 1 5_8" or you will have plugging. Plus follow drives back to see no belts are bottomed in grooves ect. Good luck with your project.
 
 
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