Combines 1996 R 52 Rotor loss

[lbran]

There are many mods you can do to alleviate this problem, and yours is like all other rotaries. Case-IH is having same problem here too. Stalk still has enough moisture in it that the grain gets trapped as it rolls across the cage. Removing wires, adding helicals, changing mid position etc. See tbrans listing on this page, he has all the info and nathank has web site which shows all the pictures on how to do it, cost 1mil

 

[Dan]

Bill, You won't need to remove any wires from hi wire concave. Have not had any reports of more cylinder loss with extended bars but have lots of reports of less loss. let us know more specifics and your setup ect. if still can't get it. Good luck. Dan

 

[tbran]

the old method of adding reverse bars WIll work to stop rotor loss. But , they will increase HP. First I would like to add one or two concave filler strips to the threshing grate then lower the concave as low as possible. Make sure it is level top and bottom and move the MID_MIN_MAX one mark toward MIN. This makes sure all the threshing is done on the grate . Also If you add just one filler strip you can leave it in for good as I have noticed no adverse effect. let us know of progress.

 

[Tom]

We have on hand 8 of the cyl bars extensions for $51.26 each for immediate shipment. Please let me know if you need them.Hurtt Equipment Hoople, ND701-894-6363hurtt@polarcomm.comwww.hurttequipment.com

 

[Bill]

Right now I am running 1000 RPM rotor speed with concave at 2 and 1 mark toward Min from Mid position. The wheat on the ground is wheat that is thrashed from the hull as it is just the bare seed I can find on the ground. Will filler plate still be an answer as I thought the filler plate would be necessary only if the seed was not being thrashedIJ

 

[Bill]

So you think I should just put in the extended bars and forget removing any wiresIJ If so will extended bars remove the grain before going through the rotor without modifying anything elseIJ

 

[tbran]

depends on where it is threshed. rotaries have threshing action all the way to the end of rotor. Doesn't take much time to try anyway. Also what does your pacer say when turned to range 1 and set point 10 when you start slow and then speed up ground speed. Also I'm sure you have opened grain bin access door and checked tho see if front of rotor cage is not plugged between cage and grain binIJ Plugging here will render the cyl pacer inoperative..

 

[tbran]

also remember you can add reverse bars to the point of no loss but at decreased capacity. The extended bars_cut paddles will let the crop flow thru and decrease the mat of MOG (mat. other than grain) thus allowing grain to be beat and centrifugally separated in a less dense enviornment. It will leave the straw almost whole as well in most instances... (note - follow operators manual to get a real count on loss. Remember that on a say 20' head you gotta have a lOT of grain coming out of 1' chute to = 1 bu _a. let us know progress.

 

[Dan]

Bill, If you have the high wide spaced thresher grate I would doubt it would help to remove wires. Yes I think you could just extend bars and expect less loss. You could open your sieve and check hopper to see how well you are threshing. If you are threshing well you could keep slowing up rotor to pack concave tighter and squeeze out more seeds while at the same time spinning the straw threw rotor a little slower. At some point it will start taking more power. I often though rev. bars wouldn't be so bad if you didn't put one across from each other turning in the same circle. Is the header feeding even and do you have the shocks on feed drums. Do you have rock door hump installed. All this improves feed to cylinder thus no bunches going threw taking seeds with. Removing every other wire from separator grate won't hurt and will only cost you some time. If you are thinking of fastening a rasp concave bar from old Gleaner like Tim has mentioned and can't find one you may be able to find a old flat style cylinder bar from IH or JD. I have never seen one and don't know how it compares to Gleaner concave rasp bar but loewen used to sell them bars to the Gleaner guys for there concave. I don't know if you would want a left rasp or right rasp and how high they are but I will check it out sometime. Maybe Tim has been around them old bars and has an idea if they would work. Be careful not to set that thing to good or the mice will go hungry and then the snakes and then the birds and so on. Best of luck. Dan