Combines 2 mechanic questions

[John]

The rod on the M2 is touchy! I don't remember whether the adjustment technique and spec are in the owners manual or the service manual but it is out there to be had, my manuals went with the M2 trade. Also if I remember correctly the torque sensor at the bottom end HAS TO BE FREE and operable or it will destroy the upper end. Is the 2800 leaking from the casting or a gasketed or frost plug areaIJ I had problems with a leak because the frost plug sealing area was getting bad. We were able to grind it, weld it, grind carefully to fit the plug and seal the new plug in. And get some water treatment to stop any more electrolysis damage. Find an M2_3, 7020 or an 8010 and get the water filter system. All diesels of the 1960-70's had problems with electrolysis.

 

[D_Mayes]

I have a 8070 that was pitted and would cut the o ring when putting in a new sleeve. I cleaned the pits out real good and filled them with J B Weld, let cure then filed smooth, has lasted 2 years so for. The o rings sealed just below the pits on mine so there wasn't much risk. Do like John said and put on a water conditioner.If you can't find used a new kit was available last time I checked and change the filter every time you change oil filters. It doesn't cost much. I don't think the previous owner hardly ever changed it on my 8070.

 

[kurtk]

To adjustment the traction drive you have to do these things: 1. traction drive must be on the sheaves while making the adjustments. 2. start engine and put drive in low range ( hydraulic ram fully closed ) 3. remove main drive belt from engine sheaves adjust nuts on adjusting link to obtain 0.20'' 0r 5mm clearance between driven sheaves. Step on belt occasionally to free cams in driven sheave ( and loosen belt ) while making this adjustment. Turn sheaves as this adjustment is being made. 4. loosen the fitting on the end of the hydraulic hose, just enough to relieve any pressure in the traction drive hydraulic ram. Rotate the traction drive sheaves by hand at least two full revolutions while hydrualic fitting is loose to make sure that ram is fully collapsed and the yoke assembly is fully to the left. 5. Recheck the dimension between the driven sheaves with the .020'' gauge and if necessary repeat step 3 adjustment. When the .020'' clearance is obtained retighten hydraulic fitting securely. 6. Check the distance from the R.H. end of the yoke assembly to the end of the ram stop setscrew with the 2-3_4 ( 70mm ) long leg of the gauge. Adjust set screw and locknut if necessary to obtain the 2-3_4 dimension. 7. Install main drive belt, turn engine over several times with starter, but do not let engine start!!! Recheck first adjustment, if required readjust. Hope this helps you Kurtk

 

[T3]

Don't know if I can help or not but here goes. My experience has been that changing the rod length will not throw the geometry off of the variable pulley. I think that all this rod and the set screw behind the variable cylinder are for is to adjust the gap between the pulley sheaves. I experienced slipping while going through the field this year. I did everything I could think of from tightening the rod to a new belt. My problem was a worn out clutch and this caused the combine to feel like the belt was slipping at slow speed. As for breaking the pins, I would check to see that the 2 big bushings in the outer sheave of the variable speed pulley are good and the pulley is not binding on the main shaft. Next I would check the 4 bushings that the pins go in on the same pulley. Do the pins need replacingIJ Check the torgue sensing box on the lower pulley. Sometimes they need to be torn down and cleaned or the thrust bearing on the spring goes out. This can cause the slipping feeling also. If available, go to your local Gleaner (Agco) dealer and see if they will let you borrow the shop manual to find out how to adjust this Variable speed drive. If you can't let me know because I have a manual. Good luck!! T3 PS Crowfarmer suggested that I make a bushing and put it behind the spring in the torque sensing box. Said that this made it possible to spin rice and cane duals!!

 

[Rig]

Thanks I did not have a manual to tell me how to do this. I did all steps except number 6. I will check that. Part of my concern is that I am to the end of the thread on both sides of the adjustment rod (opposite the ram) to get the driven sheaves to part. In fact the inside part of rod was bottoming on the combine side and I had to grind the end off a little to get it to pivot. My belt looks fairly good but is it stretched to require this kind of adjustmentIJ

 

[Rig]

Thanks. My problems seem more severe as most of the counterbores have erosions in the top o-ring seating surfaces. A filter was put on at some point and there was little evidence of electrolysis on the sleeves this time. I have heard of people using JB weld and wanted to hear their experiences. Would any kind of sealant in combination with filling the holes with JB increase the odds of successIJ I suppose that sleeves do move some in their bores though.

 

[Rig]

Thanks

 

[kurtk]

It sound's like your belt is stretched to it's limit. My combine is hydro-driven and I normally change my belt every three years because the belt is alway's driving the pump whether your combining or driving to and from the field. Have you had the combine through the mud and if you have that will shortin the live of the belt very quickly. I have had a few muddy year's and my drive belt's only last one year. Kurtk

 

[Gleanerpilot]

Rig, To go along with T3's comments about the bushings in the V_S sheave, you might also check the end of the main clutch shaft. I have an 'M' that has a shaft that has worn down enough that, even with new bushings in the sheave, there is still a lot of play. Those pins don't last long if there is any room for the sheave to move. I've got another shaft (from a used machine),but need to build it up and turn it down, because the inside bearing spun on the shaft. I just haven't got around to rebuilding the shaft and replacing it yet. But a worn shaft will definitely cause those pins to break. You might want to check that out. Gleanerpilot

 

[Dan]

I would replace all pins at the same time and get them tight. Have seen many times in many locations where pins are replaced and they start breaking.(bad pins right,not). Your Gleaner dealer should have a socket to fit pin so you can get it tight and don't forget to replace bushings. If you replace just one pin it will pull only on that pin and if it is loose it will deflect enough in threads to break off. I have also used JB liquid steel on some of these very old machines with good results. Maybe a good blast of stop leak after getting her running again and change anti-freeze every couple years thereafter. Coolant filter would be great but a pint or so of DCA4 every year should keep you in good shape on that engine. Good luck.