Combines 2188 vs 2388

Jeff, the 2388 has a 3 speed rotor gearbox, cast pivioting bracket for the seives. I believe they also up Hp on the 2388 by adding an air to air intercooler.

yep 20hp xtra. not much else

Yeah and they have a larger disel tank um...A_C works better (not perfect but i think its hard to have climate control in such a large glass cab The moisture sensor is on the clean grain elevator now. (YES!! lol its alot better than in the hopper) I think thats pretty much it I might be missing a few Also if your talking about a new 2388 with the AFX Rotor then you'r going to experience a qieter combine and better performance

I have found this link to be the best at answering that question.

2388 has 3 speed rotor drive gearbox, 2188 has a 2 speed. later 2388 doesn't utilize a separator clutch system, it has a belt drive with a cylinder for engagement. 2002 2388 and later has a hydraulic feeder reverser, not the electric motor type. 2388 much better.

I forgot about that Yeah the Hydralic feeder reverser was a much needed change...Electric didn't work Also the 3 speed rotor drive gearbox isn't the best in the world but it works most of the time ive hear of issues also you can change the rotor speed from up by the cab on one of those service panels by the cab door

Question about the new separator engagement system. Can you still clear a slug in the rotor like with the hydraulic clutch systemIJ According to the manual, you are supposed to lower the concave, open the engine wide open and attempt to clear the slug by engaging the separator with the hydraulic clutch system. It always seemed against my better judgment to do it, but that is what the book said. I am wondering if you did that with the belt system if it would tear up the belt.

If you have to do it, lower the concaves, put the rotor gearbox in neutral, crank engine and put the separator in gear. With the rotor pulleys turning, put them in the slowest speed with the switch in the cab. The cut off the separator and put rotor gear box in low range. Now you have the most available torque for clearing the slug. Then run the engine up pretty high (I don't go all the way) and cut on the separator swich. It will either clear or kill the engine. If it kills the engine, time to dig out the pocket knife and rotor wrench. The problem is that some people will keep doing this over and over. I once saw a guy that had choked up in green rice, and did this about 10 times in a row until he finally burnt up his PTO. I would say that the belt would be better if anything. They went to the belt because of PTO failures. Our 2388 is a '98 model and the PTO has been rebuilt once after a hose going to the pump got a hole and leaked the oil out.

I learned this trick about unchoking a combine after choking my 1660 up SEVERAl times. Of course I have the drive belt engagement. Drop the concaves and with the engine a little above idle, use your toes to to pull up on the separator drive belt briefly to bump the rotor. it may take many times to do this, but it will eventually work the slug out. But be very careful not to get your foot caught in a pulley. I don't know if this is a new idea or not, but it works for me

Never thought of doing that, but I wouldn't do it with my toes. You could probably use a 2x4 and do it from the ground beside the combine.