Combines 2388 auger bed

I think it is just thin metal. My 88 has done that. I thought it was all the snow that I put through it in 2002 but not. This summer I put all new augers in bed and rebolted pan to sides, even used flatbar. When washing this fall I noticed it was broke away again. I love the combine but sometimes think a 66 model would be better, not as wide of a machine. Seems like they didn't make anything heavier when they made the 88 with the extra auger width throughout the machine.

it's caused by flexing on the combine frame on our 2188 I took a 1inch by 1_8 flat bar drilled holes to match wall an bolted over grain pan metal to wall never had any more trouble!

I looked at mine today and after 2000 acres it is holding just fine. I put staps along the inside and drilled new holes and with fender washers also I lifted the auger bed back into place and bolted it. It takes some time and some good elbow muscle but this will work. I think if I had a new combine I would make sure a stap was intalled before I went to the field. Good luck.

What did you use for a strapIJ When you get that new shop of yours finished I think you should build a branch plant! I know of a prime location.

I really doubt if a shop is really ever finished but with the heating, insulating, and lighting finished I can work on equipment and also find some liesure time to work on the facility. I should have built this 20 years ago. 40X46X15 with both sliding and overhead doors allows me to enter with the top up on the 2388 and the 1083 head attached. I am using a lB White heater and it seems to work great. I did install a couple ceiling fans to keep the air moving. Before I installed them your girlfriend could be comfortably naked on top of the cab while you were in flannels on the floor. Now I work in May comfort and the girlfriend, well--- that thought was just for this post. My grandkids are awaiting Christmas and the goodies my wife has for them. Now to the rest of the story----I used good 1_8 flat stock and as wide as the lip would tolerate, maybe 2 inches or so without going out for a look. Don't skimp on the bolts- a foot or so apart and use the ones you have also with fender washers. If you have access to a little wire welder patch it up, but it is not necessary. Don't forget to have the hose ready with plenty water if you cut or weld. I really think the damage was done to mine, and since we seem to be twins with our combine episodes, when the corner broke off the bottom rail last year and let the chaffer get of whack and beat on the bottom of the auger bed. I am not doubting the twisting and torquing of the machine did not add to the trouble. Good luck, safe skating, and for a price I could build the branch shop. Perhaps a spot of tea or a cold Red would bring that discussion in line. $30K or so would be a good number to start with.

The new 25xx series have a strap bolted to the inside of the auger bed pan from the factory just like you mentioned.

Your chaffer rails are hitting the corners of the auger bed on the back stroke. You need to remove the corner and turn the bolts around at the corners of the auger bed, very common problem some machines you can watch the auger bed move when the combine is running. www.csrkit.com for brochure. CSRKIT is $290 plus shipping and $5.00 handling. Contact Gordon at Heartland Repair Service Po box 22 Ross ND 58776 or call 1-701-755-3326 or 1-701-629-1469

You guys are doing a good job of fixing the auger bed but you have not fixed what really caused it. Just fixed 2188 same problem. The chaffer is hitting the corners of the auger bed on the back stroke and on the forward stroke is hitting the front panel, if you have cast bearing supports the front corners of the chaffer rails are hitting the head of the mounting bolt forcing the chaffer up into the bottom of the auger bed. look again,Gordon