Combines 2388 rotor belt and hydro

MX240 All the time that's the weak point in the rotor drive. To make them last you have to keep the pulleys cool enough to keep the belt from cooking and delaminating. When you have an underspeed rotor warning the belt is probably slipping and heating the pulleys. In our area harvesting soybeans (green stems) gives us the most trouble. We usually install two belts at a time and tie one up with nylon ties so you don't have to disconnect the drive to the front the next time. When you see the cord starting to unravel from the side of the belt you can look out. Catch it early enough and you can drive a piece of 2X4 in the driven pulley to replace the belt.

A guy I know that used to go on custom harvest said that his crew always carried a pair of hardwood wedges for replacing rotor belts. They could be driven in to the pulley without damaging it at all. I'll second the suggestion of keeping at least one extra belt in place. It kind of looks like a pain to get that mechanism apart.

I cut two 2 inch sections from an old belt with the chop saw and pound them in with a wood block on opposite sides of the pulley. They don't slip out like wood tends to. Works very well for me.

Newest rotor belts are 244423A3, just changed in last few months.

Another thing to make sure when changing rotor belts is to adjust the rotor gear box properly. It's explained really well in the operators manual.

we to put spare belts on when relaceing but is a costly excercise when seven or so machines and the belt not been used seems not last the distance if it has been sitting up in the hot engine compartment for any length of time we have changing them down to less than 30 minutes now so we no longer carry spares tied to the machine..we have found we have reduced failure my checking tensions more often. keeping the thread on the rotor clean and once a day just taking it all the way down in speed and then back up b4 reseting i think this part works the best for us has it allows the belt to tension properly just my thoughts .. and remeber if the belt don't break some thing else will have to give 2188 belt is different to 2388

there is a tool to do this guys...it's free with the combine! if all else fails, ask your dealer service department...they've changed hundreds of them...

i don't know about 2388 spring in the rotor hub, but on my 2188 i changed to a heaverier spring and that solved my prblem from eating belts, the belt don't slip and runs cooler.

the tool is only two threaded rods and a large plate which is screwed in to the hub and the nuts screwed up to compress the spring which takes time then you have to get the belt around the end of the tool..trust me the putting in of a piece of broken belt if faster well it must because the two dealers in our region do it and we can do it our selfs now in less than a hour