Combines 7720 rear beater bearing replacement

[95man]

Calendar, Be sure to have water handy as those bearings will definetly put out a flame when you first start cutting since they are a greasable bearing. When I put beater bearings on my 8820 I made sure to replace the woodruff key on the pulley end of the shaft, also is a good time to check the belt and replace if nessecary. The lH side might be easier to get at if you put the ladder up and stand on a bucket or something to get you to where you can get between the elevator and the side sheet, what you see blocking one of the flange bolts is a sheild_tube holder for the oil lines that go to the steering cylinder, I didn't have to remove it but be dang careful to not torch an oil line. Others might disagree w_ me but I have found the best way to cut those 2 bearings out is to remove the outer flange and spacer and burn thru the area between the inner and outer race - where the roller balls are at - burn all the way thru so you won't have blowback and then proceed to torch the balls out until you can get the outer race off and then cut the inner race off - all to often I end up cutting a flange if I try to cut the outer race off. let me know if you have anymore IJ's 95

 

[JoJoMac]

95 Man, Stand on a bucketIJ! Why that bearing's at eye level, man! Here's a tip. Whenever you have to get the intermediate pulley set out of the way, pop open the little door that you use to check the concave clearance. lift the pulleys, take off the belts, then stick a bar in that access hole to hold the pulley arm up. If you let it drop it puts a real nice bend in the long adjusting bolt and it's worse than a bitin' sow to get back up. Sometimes you gotta roll the cyl around to find the right spot. I burn that flange. It's only two bucks. You want a new one anyway. How's that farm thing working outIJ JJM

 

[Calander_Farms]

Thats what I was thinkin too. A guy has to be pretty short to stand on a bucket and work on that bearing. Thanks for the advice guys. Well I got it torched out tonight. I even managed to do it with the flange on without burning it. The lH side was a pain in the butt being that I didnt drop the hydro pulleys out of the way. But it worked. Sure am glad I had water handy. Had to take turns with the torch and the garden hose. The water did double duty too, besides putting out the flame the cold water cracks the bearing into even smaller pieces. Now its just to pick it apart in the morning and slap it back together. Man you have to be Gumby though to get at that belt tightener with 30.5 - l32's on. I think I'll have to run to town in the morning and pick up some ratcheting box end wrenches.

 

[95man]

JJM, Maybe the bucket isn't needed, I was relating my experience that I've had with that side and the bucket came in handy when I had to do the 7700, now when I did the 8820 the elevator was off, the tire was off and the hydro pulley was off and the bearing was about 6'6" from the floor. The custom combining thing is still in the works, plan to cut wheat next june - the 8820 has been quite a project - lets just say that no stone has been unturned. I got a rebuilt concave and enclosed cylinder from St. John, an airfoil chaffer and I have plans to install a remote valve system to run FandA and a contour master setup from hillco. Just about done putting the thing back together. Know of any good 893's or 930F's out thereIJ 95