Combines 800 raised feather sheets

Having run the standard with the hose mod and the raised I personally prefer the hose mod. I think it keeps more beans in the head an more dirt out. The raised sheets are better than std.

I have a standard reel with a wind system out front. Which of the two mods might improve my pickup even moreIJ Perhaps leaving well enough alone might be the thing to doIJ Seems to me the sheets and_or the hose might keep some pods which fall off early in the cutting process from jumping inIJ Right now my 324 flex presents a relatively flat surface which the air reels moves material across easily. My reel puts out 12" of preasure with a water manometer. Anyone one else have a preasure reading to compareIJ Have a good harvest. We are finished here and the elk is in the freezer. Deer season soon. My critics have deceided that the way to properly prepare for the hunt is to beat the old rifle around in the combine, mix up the ammo, not sight it in ever, not practice and wear dirty bifocals. They contend I just cause the game to die laughing. Seems to work every year. Of course I wouldn't bragg or nothin.

Hard to beat air for keeping beans in and for feeding but it would be nice to run without it when not shelling and beans are tall. Tube will help to keep dirt, rocks, and some beans out but will help feeding unless very very short beans. Tube will improve feeding enough that it will never lose as many beans as it saves. Raised sheets will help feeding and surely keep more beans than it will ever allow to fall back out. Now I think there is something that everyone with short beans should look at. That is the hold down for the back of feather sheets. The flat iron and screws that hold it down are like a dam. If I had a problem feeding these short beans I would remove approimatly 1_2 of the screws and taper the whole front edge of flat iron. The iron is just to far ahead of auger to be acting like a dam. Maybe someone would take the time to remove flat iron and rivet the sheets back down. It may take twice the amount of rivets to hold down but I bet it would be well worth the effort for them short beans. Feather sheets act as a helper to take weight off of cutter bar so it needs to be secured fairly well. Good luck to anyone who gives it a try before I do. It would be nice to hear how anyone is getting along with them cam operating reels that help push material threw dreaded dead area better.

I removed the flat irons completely. Dam dams. Flipped the sheets end for end, drilled new holes spacing the holes towards the edge of the sheet so the original holes are covered by the front thing-a-ma-jig piece. The original carriage bolts and hole spacing seem to work fine. On one sheet where the hole moved and the oblong bit had to be used a fender washer did the trick and is better than the dam dam. So far so good. On another topic for a quick hyd oil change don't inspect the hose from the hyd pump to the valve bank. There is a hose clamp mount on the chanel iron motor mount frame under the radiator where the hose exits the engine compartment and heads towards the valve bank. This clamps held the hose aganist the rounded edge of the chanel and the pulsing of the hose did the rest. I had just come off one off my steepest hills and on to the level when she blew. One more life used! This is on a 99 with an m 11.

So far so good sounds good. You have the older 300 with sickle approx 3" further ahead of flighting than the 500 and 800. I guess wheather it is a 300, 500, or 800 it isn't necesarily how far the sickle is from flighting but how close you can get reel to flighting. Reel can get just as close to flighting no matter what head so that leeds me to realy think a guy needs to do something with that flat iron dam. Hopefully someone with crop to go and no special attachments on reel will try something with that flat iron hold down system and report back.