Combines 830 flex vibration problems Need help asap

Have a look at Hyper Mods _ Misc. Rotary Mods _ Rolf Hedt's Mods "Heddy's Hyper Mods. [ 1 ] Install Flywheel on the Wobble Box flywheel, unless you have an alternative knife drive. It really smooths out the knife drive and stops a lot of problems before they start. [ 2 ] Install the reinforcing bar on the skid plate all the way thru to and past the tie rod end. [ 3 ] Tie rod ends break because of some fore and aft movement of the skid plate which eventually fatigues the rod end or rips out the tapered hole. AGCO has no tolerences for FandA movement in this area which causes all sorts of breakages, hence the pivot built into the rod end shown in the mods. [ 4 ] Replace the stabilizer mild steel shaft with a chrome steel shaft made from hydraulic ram shaft steel. The kevlar bushes in the stabilizer don't touch the chrome steel. Once slop develops in this area the whole kit and caboodle rapidly falls apart. Hope this helps a little. Best of luck! I know the feeling.

Thanks for your help so far. But in the middle of harvest right now and need a quick fix. I don't understand the bolt to prevent fore an aft movement. Won't the tie rod end take care of that. We have 500 ac. left if I drill out the skid plate tappered hole for a larger size tie rod end will that get us byIJ Would like to beef things up like you mentioned but don't have time or ability. Do any of you guys make these 30ft flex head mods for sale if so very interested. Thanks

Suggest you pay a visit to a car wreckers yard with the tie rod ball joint in hand. I think we got a tie rod end tapered hole to fit from the steering arms off of about a 1960's vintage GM vechile [ chev IJ ].This can be welded on in place of the damaged fitting. The damaged tapered hole could be reamed out to take a larger taper but finding a tie rod end to fit the stabiliser setup is a major problem. A way out idea, which we have not tried, is to drill out the tapered hole to take a bolt, then use a heavy eye bolt, similar to the ends of the parallel link arms on the flex, to do the same job as the tie rod end. I hope this may help as I have been there too. On the fore and aft movement. The skid plates, knife and etc, have a couple of millimeters, more when worn, of F and A movement. The stabiliser and tie rod end set up allow no Fand A movement at all. In stead of the parallel arms of the flex taking all the drag of the skid plates, the stabiliser and tie rod end take a large part of the skid plate drag plus the heavy sideways vibrations of the knife drive and any side drag on the skid plates. The end result is regular breakage of the tie rod end and_ or distortion of the tapered hole and cracking of the skid plate in that area and cracking of the stabiliser arm. The pivot bolt in the tie rod end allows for a few millimeters of FandA movement of the skid plates and puts all the skid plate drag back onto the parallel arms where it belongs. It eliminated our tie rod end and other breakages. Apologies for the long post.

You can purchase the weld on piece of the skid shoe that holds the ball joint. I do not have part n with me but if u call 270-885-7323 in a.m. i can get it for you. then all u have to do is pry up feather sheets, grind off old one and weld in new one. The fix for the problem is to install another stabilizer to right hand end to take the side to side force created from the 30' sickle bar. also the 25' headers need it too. All parts are the same as left hand end and holes are there Nathan

Heard of custom operator breaking lots of heads on flex head. He removed plate that holds and keeps wobble box straight with sickle and had made of 1_4" material. Heads quit breaking. There is machine shop that duplicated plate with heavier material. I believe a machine shop would have little trouble making up the flywheel.