Combines 8590 vs 9720

  • Thread starter hellandharvester
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hellandharvester

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I have been told there are very few differences from 9720 to 8590. I can't say for sure yet. The 8590 I bought is not home yet. But when I have them together I will compare it to my 9720 and let you know of any differences. I am sure that any of the fire hazards were not addressed on the 8590.
 

RJT

Guest
For the flex head I put a 30' case IH flex head on my 9720 and it worked out very well. Main reason was the electrical sensors for the header height control are the same as white. Just redo the cord end on the IH to plug into white. I got a head adapter from Harv's farm supply, but did have to change the angle the header was to the feeder house. They may be making the right one now, but the one they sent me was for a corn head. I also had to take the hydraulic tank and pump off my pickup header and mount it on the 1020 since you will need a way to run the hydraulic reel drive. If you use a white pump it will also have the wire to hook it up so you can adjust speed of reel or put it in automatic to get ground speed automaticly. As for the differences between 9720 and 8590 the only differences I remember was the header clutch was a little bigger. I owned 5 9700-9720's starting with serial n55 in 1979. I wouldn't say they were under powered. I would say the drives would not handle much more power than they had. They were a big capacity machine. They had a very nice cab and seat. They were heavy on the rear axle so you really needed RWA. Not as dependable as today's combines, but then I don't think anyone else's combines were either.
 

RJT

Guest
On the 9700-9720's that I owned I never considered them to be a fire hazard. The last two left here with 3200 and 4100 hours on them and never had a real fire. That being said yes we did carry fire extinguishers and 2 gallon water jugs. The water did get used often as we would find chaff smoldering under the engine or on the straw chopper hood once in a while. You will smell it in the cab if it happens. Water if far better than a fire extinguisher for this.
 

Cutter

Guest
Didn't the 8590 have a belt drive rotor variator vs. the hydrstatic driven rotor of the White 9700 series and today's late model Massey axial flowsIJ I saw a used 8590 sitting on a NH lot in Colorado a few years back that actually had a belt driven rotor (news to me too). It was said that only a few received this type of rotor drive, and I assumed that a "few" meant 8590 only.
 

hwy19farm

Guest
Hey,Marv are you going to the sale at Mylo on the 18th for that 9700.Jeff
 

JW

Guest
Thanks for the feed back. RJT, I would appreciate it if you could list what you feel were the main problems with the 9720. This machine I believe has 4300 hrs on it. I would like to address each problem area and improve on it before harvest. Your input would be greatly appreciated, after 5 machines I am sure you know every nut and bolt. Can I improve the machine without major re-engineeringIJ From your experience do you feel the CaseIH head is the better way to goIJ I assume from your post that the JD head would have been more complicated to hookup and this was your major reason for choosing the IH. Any thoughts on the St. John's rotorIJ Regards JW
 

hellandharvester

Guest
Jeff I dont know if I will have time to go myself but my dad will be going to check it out for me.
 

RJT

Guest
I was assuming you want a flex head. The pods (sensors) to control the automatic header height control are expensive so therefor the 1020 Case was a good choice and our local Case IH dealer service manager put me unto this since he had already done one. I know of 2 more that were done after I did mine. Also when I talked to the Bish head adapter people they told me they had done several. St Johns had a store in Redfield So Dakota while I had mine. They did not have an updated rotor at that time, but I did have them redo my concaves. I bought an airfoil chaffer from them which really worked much better than the adjustable one that was in the 9720. Be especialy watchfull of stack of pulleys on the radiator end of the crankshaft. There is a wedge arrangement holding them on. If they ever come loose and start to slip you will ruin your crankshaft and that costs big time. I caught one just in time, but I know there were some others who weren't so lucky. At 1500 to 2000 hours I took my rotors out and had them rebalanced at a shop in Fargo ND. Start your machine up and put the rotor in high gear and run it as fast as it will go. You will know if it needs balancing. Also while the rotor is running watch the gear box. Is it wobbling. The rear shaft in the rotor that goes into the gear box can work loose. I had one twist from a rock getting into the rotor. Had to torch it to get the gear box off it so it could be replaced. Check the grain pan for cracks. look at the hammermill like screen at the very rear of the rotor. If someone plugged the chopper (belt broke) it will be bulged out in places or have some cracks in it. Check the vanes above the rotor, if anything besides straw went thru they may be bent. You can check under the engine pan for this. external signs would be bulges there. 2 wheel drive machines had trouble with the rear axle spindles. If you check the salvage yards you will not find one left. I could go on and on, but if you have a specific question just ask.
 

ferge

Guest
Another common problem is the electric actuator on the machine clutch -- with age the electrical circuits fail -- we bypassed that with a DPDT switch in the cab -- but it has to be shut off manually -- we put a circuit breaker and an amp meter in the circuit just in case we forget to shut it off!!!!
 
 
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