I was assuming you want a flex head. The pods (sensors) to control the automatic header height control are expensive so therefor the 1020 Case was a good choice and our local Case IH dealer service manager put me unto this since he had already done one. I know of 2 more that were done after I did mine. Also when I talked to the Bish head adapter people they told me they had done several. St Johns had a store in Redfield So Dakota while I had mine. They did not have an updated rotor at that time, but I did have them redo my concaves. I bought an airfoil chaffer from them which really worked much better than the adjustable one that was in the 9720. Be especialy watchfull of stack of pulleys on the radiator end of the crankshaft. There is a wedge arrangement holding them on. If they ever come loose and start to slip you will ruin your crankshaft and that costs big time. I caught one just in time, but I know there were some others who weren't so lucky. At 1500 to 2000 hours I took my rotors out and had them rebalanced at a shop in Fargo ND. Start your machine up and put the rotor in high gear and run it as fast as it will go. You will know if it needs balancing. Also while the rotor is running watch the gear box. Is it wobbling. The rear shaft in the rotor that goes into the gear box can work loose. I had one twist from a rock getting into the rotor. Had to torch it to get the gear box off it so it could be replaced. Check the grain pan for cracks. look at the hammermill like screen at the very rear of the rotor. If someone plugged the chopper (belt broke) it will be bulged out in places or have some cracks in it. Check the vanes above the rotor, if anything besides straw went thru they may be bent. You can check under the engine pan for this. external signs would be bulges there. 2 wheel drive machines had trouble with the rear axle spindles. If you check the salvage yards you will not find one left. I could go on and on, but if you have a specific question just ask.