Combines AFX in 1680

I installed the AFX in a 97 2188 also the heavy torque hub it's great run great in rice anyone that harvest rice knows how hard it is on a machine green beans as fast as you can stay in the seat on a 1680 I would go with the stewart kit or something comparable deadduck runs one on his 2388 and he has no complaints but you do need to keep an eye on the engine rpms I reset my engine speed alarm to go on at 2260rpm any lower than that she wants to keep bringing the engine down

Unless you need to replace the whole rotor, do what I did and go with the Axceller kit available through Maurer Mfg. Seems to do pretty much the same thing as the AFX. Made of 1_2" steel, it just bolts to the front of the rotor. Costs $1700 or so. While you have the rotor out, replace the vanes in necessary. Made a big difference in my 2388 in green soybeans and rice.

I just called them, and price is still $1,700. looks like this will give the smoother flow I am wanting. We need to put on new ridged rasp bars, as the old ones are wore to the bolt heads, and are baby butt smooth. How much wear before replacing sep bars on back of rotor, and vanes on cageIJ

Hard to say, but my motto is when in doubt, replace. If the rasp bars are that worn, the separator bars are probably pretty worn too. As far as the vanes go, look at them closely, If they are worn down so that they are sharp on the edges, or if they're worn down at the ends, I would replace. They are what makes the crop move rearward, if worn the rotor can get constipated and take more power than it should. The extended wear vanes will last a lot longer and are much heavier. Don't forget to check the T-bolts that hold the cone to the rotor cage, they have a habit of the heads wearing off. Also, check the cone and rotor cage for thin spots and the concaves for wear. Worn concaves will result in poor threshing. Also check_replace the rotor hub, the rubber bushings in it have a tendency to wear and cause some nasty vibrations. Check the seal in the rotor gearbox to make sure it isn't leaking. Replace the front rotor bearing. In other words, it sounds like the rotor hasn't been out in a while, so you should give it a good going over while it's out.

Hard to say, but my motto is when in doubt, replace. If the rasp bars are that worn, the separator bars are probably pretty worn too. As far as the vanes go, look at them closely, If they are worn down so that they are sharp on the edges, or if they're worn down at the ends, I would replace. They are what makes the crop move rearward, if worn the rotor can get constipated and take more power than it should. The extended wear vanes will last a lot longer and are much heavier. Don't forget to check the T-bolts that hold the cone to the rotor cage, they have a habit of the heads wearing off. Also, check the cone and rotor cage for thin spots and the concaves for wear. Worn concaves will result in poor threshing. Also check_replace the rotor hub, the rubber bushings in it have a tendency to wear and cause some nasty vibrations. Check the seal in the rotor gearbox to make sure it isn't leaking. Replace the front rotor bearing. In other words, it sounds like the rotor hasn't been out in a while, so you should give it a good going over while it's out.

I don't think it's been out in 6-10 years. I have two 5" thick service manuals on the 1680, but an interested in removal and installtion tips. Thanks for your known high wear check list. Is there a clearence measurment for the separator bars and cage on the std. rotorIJ Especially when installing new front rasp bars.