Combines Agco version of humpless feeder floor

[NDDan]

I've been wondering the same thing. I could swear I was talking to dealer last summer and he said he had factory piece and it was 18". I may have been dreaming. I would find it weird that they would offer something other than full replacement section. The price seems to suggest it is only 18" but where I find the weight it suggests it is the full piece. Hopefully someone that know will pipe up hear and let us know. While I was on an outright campaign to get this hump removed and front floor tilted I was told by the head engineer that hump is in there to prevent dead area between chains. While it does maybe help prevent a dead area it also directs the straw to high into tention drum. I have never seen the dead area without hump to ever cause any problems. While it is nice the have the hump out of the way the biggest key to whole thing is how it leaves tail end of front feed. This is why I shorten that floor by three inches and tilt it down by 1_2". This allows the straw to leave front feed at a much better angle for it to feed under the rear feed tention drum. Our '08s with factory lowered floors get one adjustment before they go to work. That is we remove the bottom drum pad for rear tention drum. This allows the chain to start out at a lower position to get the feed going and then the shocks will stabilize the drum according to quantity of material. We allways have rotors pulled out for predelivery so I do some fine tuning to helicals and that oversize triangle prior to putting any straw in it. This also reduces load on feeder system and they have been working flawlessly. Several reports of these class 6 and 7s feeding just as much material as class eights so something must be working.

 

[mailman13]

Is the rear of the front feed floor shorter and tilted on the 2008 modelsIJ I think you mentioned earlier that they did indeed drop the rear feed floor when they removed the hump so I would guess they would need to also drop the front feeder floor to match up. Is this correctIJ By the way, earlier you sent me some pictures of the shortened front feed floor mod you do now. Is this necessary or can you still just drop both floors like in your original instructionsIJ I assume there are a lot of the original setups that are still out there doing the job. Which setup do you think is betterIJ

 

[NDDan]

The rear of front floor is tilted but not shortened on '08 machines. The front of humpless rear floor is also tilted on '08 machines. This is basically identical to the way we were doing it for a couple years. No problem for this works great. We were working on a hybred of this to make an even better transition between chains. At couple dozen machines got the hybred but was quite hard to do. Along with an Aussie friend we found a way to about duplicate the hybred design and was much easier to do than both of the first designs. That is were secureing humpless rear floor in same location as original, shortening tail end of front floor by 3" on '93 or newer machines (1" on '92 and older machines) and tilting tail end of front floor down 1_2". To answer your question of what I like best. I like the latest plans but I'm putting a little more emphasis on installing 7" rear tention drum in place of 8" or at least cutting drum stops to allow higher lift if keeping an eight inch rear drum in place. Eight inch especially with W-rings can resrict room under drum and becomes more evident when rear floor is not lowered. This can be overcome largely by modifing drum stops to allow higher lift. We have drum stops set so chain just clears floor when empty and then if using 8" drum we remove blocks to get at the large OD 5_8" flat washers. We replace these washers with normal OD and then cut top of block to match OD of washers.