Combines Auger Flighting

I believe that would be 2.5" flighting. If you should have that head on a rotary and in heavy wheat straw you could benifit from 4" flighting all the way to the center line of fingers. The problem would be that straw just stands in front of fingers and will not feed under auger. When it builds to much in front of auger you will soon be leaveing and uncut strip in field.

Replacement Flighting Supply in Aurora, Nebraska. Phone 888 728 0969

I have used the following company ( http:__www.rfsaugerflighting.com_index.htm ) for the last twelve years. Fast service and a good price. One very important thing to remember: Don't forget the vertical unloading auger. When reflighting the cross tank augers and the horizontal unload auger you MUST be certain that the vertical auger flighting is in real good condition. What will happen if you don't: The cross tank augers move the grain faster than the vertical auger can move it to the horizontal unloading auger. This will cause the welds in the flighting to break loose if it hasn't been welded sufficiently. If it has been welded properly it will push the auger out of the right size of the tank. Hope this helps

For a complete brand new auger, likely the best aftermarket one around is the one built by loewen.

Thanks everyone good Info. Bob S

Try Rosetown Flighting supply their number is 1-866-882-2243 or www.flightingsupply.com

It would pay to take all your augers out, including the clean grain cross auger under the sieves and weld a 1_8" rod around the outer edge of all the flighting, but not out side the original diameter. You will probably not have to replace them again. Especially the vertical unloader. It takes the most abuse. GS

Do you put the weld on the inside of the 1_8 rod (towards the shaft) or the outside edge IJIJ Solid weld or skip weldsIJIJ Does the welding warp the augersIJIJ

If I can figure out rockpickers picture posting procedure (say that one real fast a couple of times)I will put up some. I weld the rod on the outside edge of the flighting, where the excess corn rolls over, on the side that the corn rubs against. This is where most of the wear takes place. I weld a continuous bead, wire welder is easiest, but I don't own one, so 7014 works easy. I just did all the augers in my 9500. The cross augers were down a little, but I used them, the vertical unloader and the fountain were junk so I tossed them and put on new. It did not warp anything either. I did this on my old 6620 and the fountain, unloader had been on there almost ten years and still looked like they would go that much more. (8-900 acres_yr). When you have your unloader out of the grain tank, put a slab of uhmw poly under the front cross auger where the paddle goes around. This will stop a hole from cutting through. Wouldn't hurt to do the back side just on general principals. I also put stainless liners under the tank cross augers. Clean and paint this really well before you cover it up and it won't ever rust through or wear out. Now the bearings will eventually go out, but you will probably not ever have to take these things out again. I intend on running this thing till I croak, so this makes sense to me. Need more infoIJ I like to talk about this so just ask.. GS