Combines Auto Header controller

[tbran]

Personally, I wouldn't spend the big bucks to do it. The AHHC modules have been very reliable. The main problem we have encountered throught the years has been a breakage of the wires INSIDE the harness at the point where the throat makes the wires bend as it raises and lowers. The reason your header goes up is somewhere the module got a signal to raise because current (9v I believe) went from one of the 3 wires going down to the header springs that was hot to the wire connected to the front brass ba on the clear plastic sensor. Finding that place will solve your problem in about 95% of the cases. If your module is bad and you have replace one before I would suspect a short somewhere zapping an input wire thats not supposed to be hot. We have sent the same module out with mechanics now for about 2 years for trouble shooting and have only sold 3 in last 6 years. Those were to replace old non sealed early units that were supposed to have been changed out on M-l2-3s and modules on F2 to series 3 header conversions... again I would spend the $ on other things...like Momma or some upgrades in feeding or processing.....do you have an accumulator and is it chargedIJIJ

 

[Dan]

Ed, I bet you can make it work. First you need to go look at a 800 head with the new system and maybe one that has been converted to three position system. You may be able to swing a deal with the dealer to get the new system potentiometer and wiring harness that he pulled off to install switch system. We have too switched some to the switch system only to save the guy the expense of new control module when he had a good three position control module. New system is really quite nice. Wireing new control into cab shouldn't be to tough. let me know if you have trouble. Dan

 

[Ed]

Trust me - it's the module! The module receives power from 2 sources: a fuse via an orange wire and from the thresher switch via a red one.

 

[Rolf_Hedt]

Morning folk's

 

[Dan]

Rolf, I havn't had any problem at all with new system and is easy to calibrate. I understand some controlers got out without software installed but service rep can easily install it along with any upgrade that may come along. And yes Rolf I would remove rear feed stripper in front of all three drive sprockets unless you are in corn. Also if there are any fastened under the tube in front of front feed sprockets I would remove for all crops but corn. And yes I believe I have a helical extention built and I usually exchange it for your old crop flow director for $75. I hope that didn't give you another heart attack and I wouldn't expect you to sent old flow director back over the big pond. I'll check on your other question when I get back to the shop tomorrow. Good night or day or morn or bye. Dan

 

[Dan]

Ed, Another option is a complete 3 position kit for $230US. 71354005. I think you can pull module out of that kit and plug her right in. I bet your accumulator is OK but has never been charged. Be sure that nut was cracked loose enough and shrader extention is screwed all the way on so that shrader valve is getting opened up. Have them put about 700PSI in it when piston is shuved to the end of its' stroke and she'll be about right. You can haul just the accumulator in for them to charge it. I love the accumulator for roading. Hope that helps you out. Dan

 

[Ed]

How's spring in Oz, RolfIJ My brother-in-law is there doing the touristie thing. Sounds like fun. I checked this morning: a new switch type kit is $444 CAD. That dealer said the potentiometer type cannot be installed in my 1988 R50. Another dealer said he'd installed a couple but they do not fit into the console but in a separate box on the window post. $1350, and maybe an extra $200 for header harness.