Combines aux hyd drive pully hub grease zerk

[Dave]

I have a 1680 that didn't have a zerk from the factory. The splines went out about three years ago. It was built in 1987 and has over 4000 hours on it now. I was told you can drill a hole in the casting that covers the access but it looks fairly thick. I took a 1_8" pipe that a grease gun tip fits on, and bent a sharp 90 with a little kink in it. Don't know how to discribe it any different but it will fit on the zerk if you rotate the hub around to the right place. You only need to grease it once a season anyway. The biggest challange is finding the zerk but I think you have one on a 2188.

 

[rod]

My 97 2188 did not have a grease zerk on it. I put a new coupler on it that has a nipple and engages more of the drive shaft. Hydratec Hydraulics in Regina Sask builds it.

 

[Old_Pokey]

That sounds interesting. Can you still replace the belt without unbolting the pumpIJIJ

 

[Old_Pokey]

Your way probably works just as good or even better than drilling the hole, but the hole really is'nt to difficult to drill. It is thick cast, but the drilling goes good if your bit is sharp. I drilled mine oversize a bit to 7_8" so I could get the tip off the zerk. Even so, I dont recomend using a new tip when greasing this zerk as it may break the zerk off when trying to get the gun tipp off the zerk. Biggest thing is if you do your sevice by yourself, is to make a mark on the pto housing and the pulley when its in the right spot lined up with the hole. I found on the older machines, the tachometer notches and a small pry bar are an easy way to rotate the pulley to the right spot. I have been greasing mine every 50 hours as I found out that even with that resavoir of grease, it still gets hot enough there to empty the grease out in a hurry. I'm looking for a moly grease with anti-sling additives and will buy a new grease gun to use it in.

 

[Dave]

Were you having problems tearing couplers out that you went to a 50 hour serviceIJ I got 15 years out of the original. It might have been a dry assembly at that. The guy that replaced the shaft and coupler considered once a season more than enough.

 

[Old_Pokey]

Nope, we're not having any problems, and I'm sure once a season is enough, but I'm just one of those people that allways have a grease gun handy. I grease everything more often than the manufacturer says to. After seeing the expense of the shaft and coupler, I figure grease is a cheap insureance,so to speak. As lang as the grease does'nt hit the belt and make a mess, I think I'll be ok. The moly grease that does'nt fly out so much I think would be a good one to use in that zerk.

 

[shellman]

This is indeed a good place for moly based grease due to it's ability to stick to metal better than to itself. You can get some grease from your CASE-IH dealer that we used to use on the old hydro tractors that works the best. I think the greasable hub went into production with the 2300 series machine and is retrofittable back to the 1400 series. Most common cause for premature failure here is misalignment between with the hat that mounts to the pto housing and hydro pump. When these two shafts get out of alignment early coupler failure occurrs. Very rare is there a shaft that also fails. While we're talking about this coupler, you can apply the same logic o the couplers on the drive axles as well. Gets to be lots of fun going down a hill on the road and one side strips out.

 

[rod]

I put a new belt on when I changed the coupler. So I hope I don't have to worry about it. It wouldn't be that hard to remove pump to change the belt anyways. The way Case built it the hub wouldn't slide on the shaft after a few hours of use.

 

[david]

I have a 2144 with 2700 hrs and have just had my second hub and shaft replaced. The first one went out at about 1400 hrs. We drilled a hole in the cast so I could grease it ( one time every season was what CIH recommended.) When I did the winter up-time service at 2700 hrs the shaft_hub was on its last spline. Now they say to grease it every 50 hrs, which i will do to avoid the high cost of parts replacement. Also, i was told some of the machines have an alignment problem and mine must have been one. We did some shimming to try to get things perfect. I hope that does it!

 

[Rotor_Man]

Not sure if this applies to a 1680,but on a 1480 with a worn shaft_coupler you must check the pump alignment. That little "bellhousing" adapter that mounts the hydro pump to the pto has no dowl pins to align it with the shaft. It may be right on,or it can be as much as .020 or more off which will destroy a coupler_shaft in few hours. The procedure to align this housing is in the shop manual. You mount a dial indicator on the pto shaft,and allow the pointer to run in the pump hole in the adapter. You leave the adapter to pto bolts barely snug,and use a hammer to shift the housing around untill shaft to housing runout is only a few thousanths of an inch. The closer you get this,the longer the coupler_shaft will last. When you get it as close as possible,then lock down the bolts.