Combines balancing a roter

[Wind]

Have to agree with Brodale. That straight bar is a hunk of metal to be missing. Would even take it a step further though, would probably replace all three to make the weight is the same, without wear, so you have a better starting point. Of course, that is assuming the 2 remaining are not new.

 

[gms]

no they are not new I took them off the main set and forgot to put the one on. It must not take much to throw the roter out of balanceIJ

 

[CAJUN__BOY]

the rotors on the axile flow new are to be balanced within 4oz. dust accumulated on bars an teeth can cause vibration, I'd say with all bars in it should be goodIJ

 

[Big_Al]

We just lost 5 days of harvesting due to an unbalanced rotor. We have a 03 2388 and last fall the H bracket that holds the rotor gear case flew apart and we replaced it. With less than 1500 acres, the slot on the H bracket broke again so we welded it to finish the job. We noticed the machine had been vibrating a lot more than usual prior to the breakage, and the welds lasted one day. We took it into the local dealer and they discovered the leading edges on the rotors spiral impellers had been broken off (can't figure out when that happened) and the rotor was badly out of balance. This took out the two cast brackets that hold the gearcase in place, wore the splines on the hub that bolts to the back of the rotor, and put a crack in the front rotor support. We had to drive to Grand Island to get one of the cast brackets from the factory, since no one else had one and both the dealer and the Pro Harvest guys had never heard of one breaking before. Once they got everything back together, they balanced it by adding a couple of pieces of flat iron. We moved north and did about 15 acres and it ran like a top. We were told by someone at the factory in Grand Island, if you bring your rotor in they will balance it for you for $100.

 

[Pist]

lets hear about everyones method for on farm rotor balancing. Anything fancy or just spin it by hand and see where it stops each time.

 

[RED_TIll_I_M_DEAD]

We have a 98 model 2388 with a speciality rotor. last season at the end of wheat harvest it developed a rotor vibration. Before fall harvest we noticed that one of the rasp bars had chiped off about an inch and half chunk on the side of it. We replaced that one along with the other three evenly spaced around the rotor. The combine still had a vibration. We took an air hose and cleaned all the debris from behind each of the rasp bar holders and still had a vibration. We ended up going our local rural king and purchased three round magnets of one size and one smaller one. We came home put the rotor in neutral spun it and found the heavy side and put most of them on the opposite and gently rotated it over and over again moving the weight various directions to get the rotor to the point when you rolled it it did't roll backwards. We then marked the spot where all the weights located then weighed them and then bought a piece of bar stock metal. We weighed the magnets we had on the rotor then weighed the the whole piece of bar stock and figured the weight per inch. The we trimmed the metal to fit the correct weight for each magnet position on the rotor. then carefully with the ground lead of the welder attached directly to the rotor so that the welder doesn't arc through any bearings and also not to srtike the main frame with welding lead attach these bars in the correct magnet positions. We had luck doing this. The local dealer said it would have be removed to be balanced but we achieved it without removal.

 

[Wolffman]

I recently puchased new straight bars from loewen and am pleased with their quality and price. CW

 

[swede]

I had good luck by spinning the rotor over by hand and ,marking with chalk,the bottom as it stopped[the heavy point].I also numbered each mark each time it stopped.Spun it up to 5 times. I didn't want to permanently weld something on,since I didn't know why it seemed out of balance all of a sudden. The heavy spot corresponded with a row of bars,so I added flat washers to the other 2 rows[24" rotor] of bars at bar brackets that didn't have a bar on them.It was easy to add another flat washer or two at the other points until the rotor would always stop at a different place.Hope this helps.

 

[Wind]

Right on the money Cajun Boy, 4 oz is the specification. Much more than that and you will feel it.

 

[D]

I am assuming you have a standard rotor as apposed to a specility rotor. The stright bars that are the end of the curved bars need to be left on. But the 6 stright bars that appear between the curved bars on the front of the rotor can all be removed. They are retarder bars and they keep your crop over the thrashing area which was Case's idea to get a better thrash in wheat. Cover plates work better in wheat and you do not have to retard any crop. This is a quick fix to stop the thumping and rumbeling in the fromt of the rotor. The Disrupter kit will stop the rumbeling problem in the rear. If you would like to visit with me some time just phone 1-800-235-4461 Estes Mfg. Co. ask for Don.