Combines Bearing replacement time

[Tom]

Usually bearings from AGCO are Fafnir or other top brands. El Cheapo, made-in-who-knows-where bearings are nothing but trouble in my opinion and I avoid them if possible. I seldom have to replace bearings partly due to NEVER allowing my combine to get wet although others have different opinions. My 80 M2 still had many original bearings when I sold it 5 years ago. Electric motor repair shops are the ones I have to watch for cut-rate bearings. They like the repeat business. Tom Russell

 

[MacTech]

last summer I caught a bad bearing just before it caught something on fire. As the N6 driver pulled away from my semi, I smelt something like burning paper. After a 10 minute search, we noticed a little pile of blackened wheat dust behind the pulley that drives the accelerator rolls. The bearing was shot and took the roll shaft with it. Seems like we have a couple bad bearings that create an hour or so of downtime every year, and the combines are stored under cover during the winter. That's why I was questioning the quality of the AGCO OEM bearings.

 

[Aar]

If an hour of down time a year is all you get then be very, very happy. last fall our N5 was down about as much as up. Shafts falling in half, belts, bearings, slip clutches. The list is long and bloodied by my knuckles. All the AGCO bearings we get say Timkin on them. Think thats about the best you can get. Just wondering, were those bearings that left you down for hours original to that N5, or had they been replacedIJ Can't argue too much if a 20 year old bearing fails.

 

[Tom]

Do you wash your combine like many guys doIJ Mine is dirty but I have better luck with bearings than my neighbor who washes his combine every year. Tom Russell

 

[Dan]

I would stay with OEM bearings for they are reasonably priced and about as good as you can get. A good exam of all the bearings would be good. look for bulging or missing seals and lock collar flanges breaking away. Pull chains or belts off to turn over and listen for growling noise. Get one of those stethiscope with probe on the end and listen to area next to bearing. Most bearings fail because shaft was not turned when tightening flange bolts up evenly. Keep pressure washers well away from bearings. Be sure that bearings that pivot into cast holders pivot in fairly easily. I ussually take the time to clean shaft and new bearing and then apply loctite. Hi speed shafts like accel rolls and cleaner fan need to be listened too or watched closely for you can have big damage quickly if they fail. Normally mainshaft and engine PTO shaft bearings will growl for awile before going out so pay attention for that noise. Shafts will turn very quitely if bearings are good. Remember that bearings that don't have lock collars are normally crimped to shaft by a nut, washer, and hub. In them situations be sure that washer or nut does not bottom out before crimping inner race of bearing tight to shaft. Sometimes need to add a washer to make up for any erosion of hub. If bearings aren't tight to shaft the shaft will wear down and eventially fail. Same hold true for many locations that are held on with a nut and washer. The nut and washer preloads components on the shaft and makes a rock solid setup. lose that rock solid assemble and you'll be looking at big buck repair job. Hope that helps. Dan

 

[Dan]

I would stay with OEM bearings for they are reasonably priced and about as good as you can get. A good exam of all the bearings would be good. look for bulging or missing seals and lock collar flanges breaking away. Pull chains or belts off to turn over and listen for growling noise. Get one of those stethiscope with probe on the end and listen to area next to bearing. Most bearings fail because shaft was not turned when tightening flange bolts up evenly. Keep pressure washers well away from bearings. Be sure that bearings that pivot into cast holders pivot in fairly easily. I ussually take the time to clean shaft and new bearing and then apply loctite. Hi speed shafts like accel rolls and cleaner fan need to be listened too or watched closely for you can have big damage quickly if they fail. Normally mainshaft and engine PTO shaft bearings will growl for awile before going out so pay attention for that noise. Shafts will turn very quitely if bearings are good. Remember that bearings that don't have lock collars are normally crimped to shaft by a nut, washer, and hub. In them situations be sure that washer or nut does not bottom out before crimping inner race of bearing tight to shaft. Sometimes need to add a washer to make up for any erosion of hub. If bearings aren't tight to shaft the shaft will wear down and eventially fail. Same hold true for many locations that are held on with a nut and washer. The nut and washer preloads components on the shaft and makes a rock solid setup. lose that rock solid assemble and you'll be looking at big buck repair job. Hope that helps. Dan

 

[MacTech]

We only blow the combines off with air. I wasn't there when they stored the combines, but this year, I'll go over all the bearings and such with WD-40 to stave off moisture over the winter.