Combines bubble up auger in grain bin

I doubt very much that your clean grain elevator_auger is using enough HP pushing grain to cause your engine to become sluggish. Perhaps the hp is being used moving the extra weight on the machine as the hopper fills. Are you actually losing RPM'sIJ As the hopper fills, the cab seems to get quieter as you have grain "insulating" noise from the rotor - maybe this is just making you think that you're losing power.

I have to slow down or I can bog the engine down enough that the low rpm buzzer will go off. Might start off at 4.2 and end up at 3.7 mph at the end of a load. I do have 900 series metric tires and they take a little more hp to turn. Maybe just between that and moving more of a load that's enough and it just so happens that the point that this starts is when it has to start pushing new grain through existing grain. I read i can turn up the horses on this particular motor by just turning the adjusting screw on the pump (i think my brother printed that post off)is that ok to do on a machine that has 2600 hours on itIJ I do wish the cab was as quiet as my cousins 1660 when shelling corn or at least as quiet w_a load of corn in "insulating" the noise. Thanks for the reply. - Brad

Here goes a lot of opinion....... The first thing I would say is you should not play with HP adjustments without a dyno. It is not a science......1_8 of a turn does not equal a certain HP increase. I would consider this as an option after ruling out some other things first, but only on a dyno. I agree, it seems really unlikely the clean grain system could use up enough HP to be able to notice. There are a couple tings I would sure look at first if I was wondering about HP. The first two things are easy to check. First (with the engine NOT running) push the throttle all the way to full thottle.......then go to the engine and check. The lever should be all the way against the stop and the over travel spring should be compressed. The next thing has to do with the drive belt. I have seen the snubber adjusted wrong so many times, by even mechanics, that it warrants a check. The adjustment nuts on the rubber snubber side should be tight up against the snubber, the nuts on the other side should be several inches away from the bracket.It is opften understood what they are there for. They should not be any where near the bracket. I have seen a combine traded because of low power. I spent less than a minute fixing the problem. With that many hours there are a couple things that for sure could matter with power. The valves need to be adjusted......correctly. Also the injectors need to be worked, the tips need to pass the gravity test. If you throw them up and they hit the ground the need to be replaced. OK, that was an attempt at humor. The tips need to be replaced regardless of what alot of people say. used injector tips are a waste of time. There are very few shops that do injectors right, including diesel injection stations. The bodies should be lapped and the tips replaced.Then the pressures set to spec......and even. Replace the fuel_water sep filter with the Cummins version for the larger combines, it will spin on the same base and does a lot better job. I have seen it increase injector componant life on these engines. That filter is an FS1000 fleetguard. Your gleaner parts man should have it......but dont remember the part number. Hope that helps. VSTK

Check all around the top,sides and bottom of the elevator and the bubble up auger. Is there any where that grain can leak back into the auger and be reaugeredIJ That area was, upon close inspection, in need of some serious attention to detail work. Any where a kernal can reenter the system needs to be dealt with. Check that the universal joint on the drive to the auger is not running in grain. If so exstend the side skirting down. Any kernal which is reelevated increases crop damage, power required (although I don't think that is what is happenig here) and wear. Good luck

I run the same set up it sounds like your fuel_water filter is pluged. (Have had the same thing happen) I change mine every year now. You should not be short on power if the filter is good.

Thanks. My brother is a diesel mechanic, and a pretty darn good one too, so i'll have him check those things out. He has said something about running an overhead on it, plus muttered something about injectors.

When he runs the overhead it will be a bit different.....but not a lot than engines he is used to working on. Dont remember the specs right off hand but they will seem kinds tight to him..........this is correct. The other thing.......it needs to be not run for 24 hrs prior to setting the overhead.......this seems odd but it does make a difference. There are spcs for 12 hrs cold, 4 hrs cold, etc....... but they are not as close as being cold the full 24 hrs. We have adjusted them and rechecked per the specs. Have him use the overlap method and not try the two position method as it is not as exact either.........he will understand this......most likely. Have him get new valve cover gaskets and the little washer under the hold down bolt. I prefer to use CAT glue (green gorrila snot) to attach the gasket to the cover and then the thinnest layer of red silicone on the head surface side..........never have a leak..even many hrs later. When he does the injectors, like i said in the earlier post..........new tips....new alignment pins.......and surfaces lapped. Then prssure setting to about 200 psi higher than listed spc. In a few hrs run in they will be at spec. Good luck............VSTK

Had an early R50 that caught debris at the fuel tank shut-off valve. Really cut the power when that happened. Might be worth a look.