Combines bunch feeding

we only cut soybeans, but to stop bunch feeding we pull the reel back as close to auger as it will go, and put reel down as far as it can, also, if your auger is worn a little, it will not grab the crop, we had better feeding after sharpening the auger edge, not like a knife, but put a good square edge on it, used a hand grinder with sanding disc, slow but helped a lot, you might also drive faster, run reel faster, get head with intermediate fingers, I have also seen people put studs on the auger flighting, to snag the crop, they are just thin pieces of metal folded over the edge of the auger and held there, sorry about length, hope something helps

An older retired farmer in my area talks about spreader lock washers on puttingover the edge of his auger, to make it more aggressive feeding. Said they stayed for years. Would have to move the stripper plate on rear back to allow clearance,

Is the Honeybee header cutting the crop nicely and laying down onto the drapers nicelyIJ Is the crop mat flowing nicely into the center auger and then bunching up between the center auger and feeder house front drumIJ You may need to adjust the feeder faceplate angle, need to lower the front drum, or maybe even raise the front drum ( I had to do that this year with a 36" Macdon flex head to achieve proper feeding).Does the Honeybee have the proper guide plates under the center augerIJ Doesthe center auger have the flighting extensions on and the outer fingers removed from itIJ

The crop is feeding in nicely, but sometimes tries to ride up the center auger and then pulls under.My center auger and front drum are both fully up,with my retractable fingers 15mm off the floor.The face plate is fully back.It has no guide plates and the outer fingers are removed.

We sell 85% of our Honeybee's with cross augers installed on them. Usually you only need the cross auger in certain crops such as peas. If the center auger is feeding back to the feeder house and the feeder house isn't pulling it in and allowing the material to bunch and ride up, then a cross auger would be of benefit. 2 other things: What size of front drum is in the feeder house - a 9" or 12". I don't know if the 12" is even used anymore. I have seen lots of troubles on TR96 combines with the larger front drum, that won't feed properly. I know for sure that if you have electronic stone trap you will have the smaller front drum. Secondly, do you have variable speed feeder house - is it running at the proper matched speedIJ Also, does the engine on your combine run at specified speed, in turn, the feeder house running at proper speed. On the Honeybee, is the center auger floatoing properlyIJ

Was talking to a fellow the other day and he said that if you dont run your feeder flat out the draper front will be going to slow so your belts and auger will be restricting your flow . hope this helps.