Combines Bushes in link Arms on Flex 500 800

Rolf I just finished overhauling my series III flexhead this last summer in preparation for fall soybean harvest. I had replaced all of the bushings and pins on the rear of the parallel arms. I was amazed at how few of these parts the local dealer had sold over the last several years. Apparently no one else around here considers this a maintenance item. Anyway, after replacing the worn parts, I discovered when actually using the head that it was very stiff. Upon closer examination I realized that the parallel arms were not forming a parallelogram between the cutterbar and main head. I had replaced the front ball joints a few years ago. Now that my recent repair had taken the slop or play out of the rear pivot points, the screw adjustments were not correct to produce or force the opposite sides of the parallelogram to be parallel. After making this adjustment, the flexing was better. I didn't get it to work to my complete satisfaction until I squirted the rear pins and bushings with some oil. I don't know if this last step is recommended, but it really freed up the arms to keep the cutterbar down on the ground and shaving off the crop. Have a safe harvest, Gamaman

G'Day Gamaman

These books come automatically if you are a currant dealer. I would think they would want an extra set if mechanic takes full library with him when he is gone quite some time. If that dealership gets as crazy as ours the month before harvest I'm sure they have there hands full right now. All the best to you for your harvest down under.

Rolf You mentioned tightening the bolts on the skidplates up to the eyeballs (balljoints) that you need to make sure that they are aligned before tightening because of the slop in the holes on the skidplate. I haven't had that concern. The bolts fit through the holes snugly. Were your bolts once loose and let the holes be wallowed outIJ Do you also have spacer bushings on each side of the balljoint that the bolts draw tight againstIJ I do and if I put enough torque on them everything stays firm. When I replaced worn balljoints several years ago, I adjusted the threads on them to get everything "parallel". This last summer when I replaced all the rear pins and bushings, I eliminated all that slop that I later found requiring readjustment of the balljoint threading to realign to a true parallelogram. Have a safe harvest, Gamaman