Combines Chain drive auger

if u would get a combine that worked u wouldnt have this problem! Case IH is the way to go

What was happening with the old chain was the chain was wore out. When a roller chain gets wore, the length between the pins get slightly further apart and the chain will climb out of the bottom of the spocket. A worn chain is difficult to adjust because if the rollers are all down in the sproket the chain will seem loose. Once the chain runs and begins to climb out of the bottom of the sprocket, the chain will be real tight putting excessive load on bearings and etc. The chain going from being too loose to too tight is what causes the belt to not run smooth. A good rule I go by is when I can't seem to keep a chain in adjustment, (either it will be too loose or too tight),I replace the chain. You will get a lot longer sprocket life by running chain that is not worn out.

Does your mommy know you are playing on the computerIJ

Go change your rotor belt.

Is the center section of the auger where the fingers run clean on the insideIJ Sometimes chaff and stuff will build up there and cake over winter. That causes an unbalanced condition until it is cleaned out via the inspection holes. Ed in MT

They all break. They all have their problems. They all have moving parts. Keeping this particular chain in perfect running condition is only normal maintenance. It's only mechanical, these sort of things only wear out with use. Keep in mind there is not an exception for combine, tractor, or automobile. Also there is no exception to a green , either yellow, silver, or even the acclaimed red machine(or the other one for that matter).

It's likely alot of that will go away under a load unless thing are running off center like tbran suggests. I believe a bulliton on that matter one time said no more than .060 out of round on sprocket with perfect wear ring and hub installed. large problem over the years was a under torqued nut that holds hub on. Hub would spin on shaft ruining shaft and hub. Shaft and hub replaced and nut tightened with 12" adjustable go figure, shaft and hub spun out again. Tip in that is to be sure any drive you have apart that is held on with nut or bolt be sure to torque up to specs. Anyway another trick I have saw Gleaner do with that chain is to add a idler at mid point to maybe help keep the whiping out. The no load whipping is reduced alot when flywheel was added to drive shaft and likely reduced even more if flywheel was added to wobble box per Rolfs' instructions. I have also saw some stabilize by installing next size smaller drive pulley and on the flip side I have seen some run smoother with the largest drive pulley. At any rate I allways idle machine back to rated load if troubleshooting vibration. There is usually a noticeable difference from hi idle to rated load. Anyway be sure you have hop out of drive gear first and fine tune from there. I usually try not to run sickle empty at high any more than I have to. Good luck.