swede
Guest
It's not worth it to leave the rotor in.You have to remove the bearing holder piece anyway,and once thats gone,the rotor almost slides out on it's own.Then you will have a huge space to work in to remove the old bolts,manuever the new cone in,and rebolt it. While the rotor is out ,you can inspect all the guts for wear and tear.Excellent time to replace vanes. It's best to have a helper with the rotor,because it can be awkward,especially going back in and getting the shaft lined up again.You might want to consider replacing the drive coupling at this time,and don't forget to Never-Seize the drive shaft. A shop-hoist[cherry-picker] is sufficient to lift the front end and guide it out with something else to pick up the backend when needed .I used a combination of an over head hoist and the shop hoist.Of course a loader or forklift will also work. I used the shop hoist to hold up the new cone,and set it in.Just got the cone lifted up so that the hoist arm stuck through the cone ,and the cone sat on top of the arm. Some have laid a piece of tin on the concaves for the rotor to slide on.A couple of 2x4's worked ok for me. I used a come-along hooked to the rear grate to pull the rotor back in. Didn't mean to ramble on,but I know you will be happier in the long run to remove the rotor first thing.Good luck.