Combines Changing Straw Walker Bearings to Blocks on JD9510

We did our 9610 last summer. If you've got 4' arms you might can reach the front ones through the sides. We put carpet on the screens and took the front ones out from there. We did not take out the shaker pan. If you take out one at a time I know there's no need to retime the walkers. I'm not sure there would be anyway. The instructions tell you to do one at a time so that you don't get one in a bind. I left our grease hoses in so if I decided I'd made a mistake I'd still have them. I just wire tied them up out of the way. You are correct the front ones are a PITA. It's a good improvement though. We're happy with ours.

So are the originals on the 10 series like the ones we all switched to on our 00 series that had the wood blocks in the 1'st placeIJIJ What's upIJIJ

Sorry, I didn't follow your question. The 10 series and later 00's had a metal alloy bearing that requires greasing everyday and replacing about every year. Putting the wood blocks on eliminates the need for all that. Sorry if I didn't answer your question. BH

BH.Thanks for the reply. I understand the 10's and later 00's had the metal ones that need all the greasing. I give mine a shot for every hour run. But what I am asking is, us guy's with the early 00's had the wood blocks and than were encouraged by Deere to change to the hardened cranks and metal alloy bearings, for what reason I don't remember. So why would we go back to the wood ones now, other than to eliminate all the greasingIJIJIJIJ If I have you totally confused now, my apologies

we always drop the shaker pan out. as far as timing goes, when you are done, with the belt off of the walker gearcase, roll the walkers over by hand, if you feel any binding or tight spots, then adjust the timming. if you leave the binding, you will most likely break a walker. Are your blocks worn out, are the cranks worn alsoIJ just wondering.

If you're doing good with the metal ones then I'd stay with them. On our machines (9500 and now 9610)we were having to replace them (well 1_2 of them) every year because they were loose. This was in spite of putting about 10 or 12 shots of grease in them daily. Just the aggravation and expense of changing them out and still greasing them everyday was our reason for going to the wood blocks. I understand your question now. Didn't realize that Deere had folks taking the wood blocks off and changing to metal.

take out the pan, front deflector is so big your hands can't get around it to change the bearing. Pan is a bear, get someone to help but I did mine alone with some round wood blocks on the sieves to roll it on. Air ratchet will undo the bolts, but usually wobble out the carriage bolt hole before the nut is finally off. Use a small grinder with a cutter blade and buzz off the bolt nut and all (WEAR GOGGlES). Use gr.8 machine bolts to go back with nylon collared locknuts and flat washers to go back with nut on top, much easier to replace. Fill groove of wood bearing with grease when replacing too, might not need it but I felt better even though the wood block was pretty oily. Keep gap same between walkers and the wall. Round file the old aluminum blocks. Do only one side of one walker at a time. I personally don't feel you need to remove the drive belt, so the crank can't move at all. You can feel whether the wood block fits or not. Do not put much torque on the bolts, as it could ruin the block. You may never have these off again, and for sure will never waste a minute greasing them. good luck, gs

I read through the posts below. The following thoughts come to mind: I have been through a number of walker machines and thousands of hours of custom run. I found that people are way to worried about those bearings being loose. That's the way they are. A new one is hardly any tighter as I found. Just fill them FUll of grease everyday and they will be fine. The walker crank will wear no matter if it has aluminum bearings or wood blocks on it. It is sufficient once a year to take the middle bearing off and measure the shaft diameter. When it gets too thin, than replace everything - the shafts and the bearings. But I never had to do that if the bearings were greased every day of running. The same applies for a number of other areas on a combine.

Has anyone tried the Kuchar ball bearing kitIJ They should run smooth,by taking out the slop.