Combines Concave door opening closing torque

I've never put a torque wrench on one but that sounds a little high to get it latched. I would check the looseness of washers next to the head on the 1_2" bolts that compress the springs. Them washers should be just slightly loose with door in latched position. That clearance is what prevents rollers from coming to close together when unlatched. If the rollers come to close together it would be hard for them to climb onto detent lever when tring to latch. Check that out and let me how it goes.

correct and make sure the rollers 'split th' middle' as well.

Wow! A teeny little adjustment sure makes a big difference. One bolt head had .005 clearance and the other was close to .020. I tightened them to zero clearance and made a corresponding adjustment in the length of the springs. Do we also conclude that the rollers were not centeredIJ Now it takes approx 165 ft lbs to close the door. Thats a job an old goat like me can handle without using a pipe on the end of the concave tool.

I would say latch is and was centered well enough. I would of guessed that .020 wouldn't of made that much difference. You need to be sure that latch can't move left to right very much if you are going to snug up washers that much. You might be better off to leave more gap and then taper the latch detent lever so rollers can start spreading easier when tring to latch.

and don't forget there is an e-z close door kit. (I did not say ez to install.. but it is doable and worth the effort if one luvs to harvest rocks or chunks)

There is a stone trap also if you like harvesting stones and chunks. Got it on our last R62 and was the best thing next to the smart-trac that gleaner offered vs. what we had before. The '92 had problems with always knocking the door open with rocks, bent door, tore up cylinder. The '98 with the inexpensive stone trap option absolutely no problem. Never tripped door open in three seasons. Just open every couple of days and let the stones fall out. I would strongly recommend it to anyone with a R series. I assume that is what you fellows were talking about. P.S. You can have the stone trap AND the e-z close kit even though Gleaner says you can't. Works fine.

Tapering the detent or installing an e-z close door kit sound like a lot of work at this point. After crawling into that narrow space to make minor adjustments I can understand why there arent any women combine mechanics unless their dimensions in certain places are somewhat small, if you know what I mean. Would a rock trap fit a P1 ProcessorIJ I dont have rocks but one never knows what lurks ahead. Could this be the reason the door is hard to operateIJ With no rocks there is never a reason to open and close the door except in the off-season when I give it a try every few years to see if it still works. Tom in MN

Yes there is a rock sump convertion package for the old P1s. They are aftermarket kits. There is a kit to fit the P1s where door moves with concave and another kit for the P1s with stationary crossmember that door latches on. I would bet your door is set on the tight side for the years it was running and not hyperized. Doors needed to be set tight back then for all the material coming back around cage and hitting trap door again. I would run a sump if I was sure to bring in rocks but only then for a sump can or will disturb flow from feed chain to cylinder.

Good reason for rock sump is if you can't help but eat a few rocks. I know of a few guys who installed them to prevent crop from poping door which was the wrong thing to do. The problem with them machines is cylinder and helicals was not conveying material to seperator side. Other than worn parts the single best improvement I made to keep door shut in nasty conditions is extend that third helical over feeder opening. I know it is a must to run sump in rocky conditions but I don't like the high probability of the sump screwing up flow inbetween feed chain and cylinder. For that reason I have a couple machines with a proto type rock sump attachment that will maintain a nice feed to cylinder even with sump installed. First run will be this year. I agree with you on the rock sump with EZ close and I think the only thing we needed to do is install a shorter turnbuckle rod.

Thanks for your advice. I will loosen the bolts to give a gap of about .005 and then try it in the field. Tom in MN