Combines cylinder bars

I have found that the after market bars from StJohns welding are the BEST buy. I installed a set of their chrome moly bars in my M-2 about 3 years ago and can't tell any wear on them yet! They also give you more horse power and you can run your cylinder speed alot slower. They are a little costly but I feel they are well worth the extra money!

Sounds good to me. How can I reach this place that one or both of you are refering toIJ Thanks for the help, Curt

you can either e-mail me or call St John at 800-549-3289..I sell their stuff too---only I'm better looking than they are

I too use the Trimpe Bars from Seymour IN. They are aggressive in handling any conditions I've been in. A must for beans. Many of my neighbors use them too with all colors of equip. and give them high marks.

The wider space bars are also avaible from loewen, for any make or model. They look really good.

really hard to thresh crops like fine clovers, lespedesa and some varieties of hard red winter wheat or durham wheat would benefit from the narrow spaced bars. There are success stories with wide spaced bars in these crops as well. Corn, soft red winter wheat and SOYBEANS are crops that can be harvested at a faster rate with the more aggressive wide spaced, hardsurfaced bars.

We have pulled the rotor out and had it balanced every time we have put bars on, but I guess we never actually tried doing it without. Whenever we have had a rotor out we have replaced the rubber bushings and bolts in the rear hub and checked all of the vanes in the cage, as it is much easier to do with the rotor out.

I don't know if I am much help,but I will share what I do know.The new rotor bars should come in matched sets,or at least be close enough in weight that you should not have to rebalance.I would suspect that there might be some old debris build-up[dust,chaff etc.]behind the mounting brackets.Some was jarred loose and fell out in the changing process,and some is still there in places.It can get packed in there pretty good.All those places have to be cleaned out before it can be rebalanced,so that is where I would start first.Good luck.

Notillman, I had the same problem. I weighed each bar and there is a big difference in their weights when new, and I weighed several sets. We had satisfactory results by static balancing (turning rotor by hand and letting the heavy side turn to bottom). You need to weigh each bar and label each one. Then you can move them around (heavy for light)until balanced. Then with the motor, speed up the rotor to max speed you use and look at mirrors for vibration. It works, just takes a while. Our machine came from Case with 1_3rd of the leading edge on a specialty rotor bar broke off (jammed when tightened I guess) then they balanced it like that. That's what I blamed my problem on. Hope this helps. Good luck.

First thing I would do would be to clean all the dirt and packed fuzz from behind each of the rasp bar mounts on the full length of the rotor.Then start machine and check balance or turn rotor by hand and see if it comes to a stop in a different spot each time.Kind of a nasty job but there could be enough junk in there to throw it out of balance.Sure is easier than pulling the rotor.Good luck