Combines cylinder speed adjustment

In the past I've read on this forum, that the bicycle chain adjustment, on the l2, needs to be lubed well. I had a similar problem with our l2, slopped a bunch of diesel fuel on it, problem solved. It dries out, however and the treatment has to be repeated. I don't know about your hydralic problem, but one time read that it is very important the the electrical system, batteries and alternators be up to snuff, belts tight, because everything relates to electricity on these machines.

I lubed chain and even took it off to soak overnight and the problem is still there. Is there a lubrication for the cylinder speed adjustmentIJ I sure appreciate your reply and thanks for any other thoughts you folks may have out there.

You may want to check your radiator and hydraulic cooler for dirt and debris.I know that our l2 will start to get sluggish raising the head when things are plugged up on the cooler.Take a air hose and a small wire and get your rad. and oil cooler really clean and check your pump belts to make sure the hydraulic pump is pumping up to speed.Your cylinder should be running between 600-650 for beans and we have had to work that chain over also to get it to work.

I'm at work now so I won't be able to work on her until after work tonite. I had my dad in the cab move the chain part While I took a pipe wrench to get the cylinder speed thing to move it is very stiff,am I missing something hereIJ

This may be stating the obvious but I believe you can only change cylinder speed when seperator is engaged.

There is a grease fitting on the pulley behind the sprocket that greases both the bearings and the threads on adjuster.You are adjusting cylinder speed with cylinder runningIJ(thats the only way it will turn).

Just a thought, are you pulling the white knob_handle in the cab on the speed control OUT towards you before trying to turn the knob_handle.They can get stuck inward. The knob_handle are a locking type so that they will not turn by themselves. Good luck. P.S. We run about 600 RPM in 13% moisture 40bpa with a cylinder with cutout bars (Trimpe Bars)

had same problem lifting head when it got warm on my k2, found the belt was loose, tightened belt to pump and it worked fine after that. hope this helps.

I do have the seperator engaged when I try to adjust cylinder speed. I'm at work now so it will have to wait until tonight. Thanks for the help I will let you know. If you see a large column of black smoke south of Eau Claire WI you can assume it didn't go well.

Maybe hadn't been adjusted forever and rusted stuck or bearing had went out and spun out wrecking threads. I would pull hub cap from sprocket to get what you can see of threads lubed. Then remove reverse threaded bolt with washer so you can turn spocket CCW all the way off. You may need to use pipe wrench and if that don't do it the threads could be all messed up. It wouldn't be the first sprocket that had to get burned off of shaft. This would have to be very careful procedure to prevent damage to shaft. Check with dealer to see if they have a tap and die for them threads for I got myself a tap and die many moons ago. Depending on what year machine you have the header raise was very slow around idle prior to about 1979. You may want to have pressures and flows checked before condemning pump.