Combines Dan On towards the rotor

[Dan]

Silver Streak, The major difference between the 400 and 700 is the awesome auger, same large drum with 7" flighting into finger area and 4" flighting that goes all the way to center of fingers. lots of room under that auger which allows for less strippers to hold it under there. If you put the 4" flighting on your 400 just be sure that feed chain won't contact it. If it will than it may be time to remove a half link from feed chain or move feed drum assembly rearward for it is adjustable that way. The feed chain tention drum height is adjustable, just turn the height blocks for front drum to grain front position and rear to grain rear position and install shock kit. The shocks will stabilize drum movement preventing catch and reliese of straw which is stressing drives and sending slugs to rotor. The Gleaner shock kit is for both drums and I believe loewen offers it that way also. I have not adjusted the tilt on feeder house since 1993 when I played with it a little. I do no of a dealership that does and they tilt is back so straw has more of a downward slide from sickle to underside of auger. If you were having trouble getting the straw to slide under auger it may be worthwhile tring it. There is kind of a lull inbetween feedchain and rotor where feed chain looses a grip on straw and rotor doesn't have a grip on straw. That is where rock door is and by fastening the hump on the door it eleminates the lull, improving feeding, and helps it respond to rocks better. Anyone with good, bad, or otherwise comments on these things please register and join in. Thanks, Dan

 

[Silver_Streak]

Hi Dan I'll need a price quote on the 2 sets of feeder shocks and for the rock hump door when you get a few minutes. As I mentioned earlier I have about 350 sep hours on this machine and I believe it was a demo originally. I would guess the rotor has never been touched or no mods to the cage etc. have every been done so I was wondering how these left the factory. I understand they come with 8 reverse bars and I have been wondering what is the optimum number to have and which ones if any should I keep. Also the cylinder bars would be original and of course I don't want to change them yet except for my bent one and its mate. What are the best bars to use for wheat and durum and what are these forward extended bars you mentionedIJ Do these rotaries have filler bars in the concaveIJ Any concave mods I needIJ Could you clarify helical extensions and separator grate cover for meIJ I also have a bit of vibration in this machine but I attribute it to my bent cylinder bar. Any balancing ideas I should know aboutIJ Questions, questions I'm probably worse than your wife! My machine has the internal chopper so I don't know if this makes a difference when you talk about bars. Thanks Silver Streak

 

[Dan]

Silver Streak, I'll get you prices tomorrow and tell you a little about each now. Both Gleaner and loewen shock kits install just as easy. The loewen kit has modified rear drum stops to allow higher lift of rear drum which is good. Gleaner uses a common shock that they use elsewhere on combine and loewen uses a very common automotive shock. Both Gleaner and loewen rock door hump fasten to present door the same and loewens' has about 1_4" higher hump which would help it respond to a rock better. I would install all forward wide rasp bars in place of reverse bars. The cylinder bars in your rotor now do not go all the way to the discharge opening so you need to extend them. Gleaner and loewen have kits to extend them. With Gleaners kit you remove the last bar and discharge paddle to install longer bar and shorter paddle so with there kit you have the cylinder bars you took off to use elsewhere. With loewen kit you remove the discharge paddle to install a discharge paddle cylinder bar combo which does stiffen the area between the last two cylinder stars. loewen is going to get me a price on that same design of a bar with rasp going all the way to end of rotor. I will have at least two machines set up with half the bars extended to discharge and the other half extended to end of the rotor for this seoson. We have allways just extended bars to discharge but Hypers' idea of going all the way with 1_2 of them makes a lot of sense. You should have up to four filler bars in concave if your crop is hard to knock out and your concaves should be fine the way they are. When you get your rotor out take a look at the third helical from gearbox. That helical handles a lot of straw and will dump it back on the concave if you don't extend it across the top left side of feeder opening. I fabricate a triangle shaped piece of iron to fit that corner and then fasten a short helical onto it. I bolt it in in place of the crop flow director that is in there and drill one hole in cage to hold the other end. We like to cover the seperator grate with cage type material for we find the grate can roll the straw that don't want to slide across it traping seeds and going out the discharge. We also find that it will grind the brittle straw which can overload the cleaning system. Gleaner makes a cover kit to fit the prior 1997 machines. loewen is making me some kits that will fit all machine and they will be chromed with countersunk retaining hardware. Your bent cylinder bar could well be what knocked your cylinder out of balance. I bolt in a stubshaft with bearing fastened to end in place of cylinder coupling to static balance my rotors. You should check earlier posts on cylinder balance for some FRUITY ideas. Make sure your chopper isn't missing a blade. You mentioned questions and my wife. I think I answered alot more of your question than I did hers lately but she don't mind. I DON'T THINK SHE DOES. I better go check. Good bye. Dan

 

[Silver_Streak]

Hi again Dan,Well believe it or not I think I am starting to run out of questions. I have an opportunity to pick up an air foil chaffer but from what I have seen cleaning or shoe capacity isn't much of a problem. Any suggestionsIJ I had a problem with the unloading auger when I first put this machine in the field. The safety cutout switch to prevent the auger from activating when in the cradle failed and I happened to bump the unloading switch. Of course I broke the shaft at the u-joint where the tube swings and yes I had 300 bushels in the tank. When I repaired the piece and re-assembled the auger I wasn't sure if it needed to be timed as it can go together 4 different ways. Any experience with thisIJ While you are digging for prices on the shock kits and rock hump kit you might as well get me a quote on the forward wide rasp bars,extended bar kits,the third helical fabrication you make, and the seperator grate cover. All for now Thanks Silver Streak

 

[Dan]

Silver Streak, I can't speak for the air foil chaffers but I don't know of anyone taking one out after installing. I see a lot more of them chaffers in the conventionals. As far as unloading auger in tube I don't think it makes any difference on the timing. I do extend the flighting on auger in bottom of tank to within a 1_2" of bushing support and be sure that flighting on auger in the tube extends beyond the end of pipe toward the ujoint to reduce the dead area for I have seen some that are bent flush with end of pipe. On earlier machines that don't have flighting extended beyond end of pipe I weld a couple paddles onto outer ujoint yoke to help kick crop into outer auger. That helps alot in edible beans or crop that has some soft seeds that can get squished in that area. Brother Tom or I will post prices soon. Hang in there. Dan

 

[tbran]

hey, I resemble those remarks and my mother in law is not Fruittttty! keep up th good work!

 

[Dan]

Silver Streak, I posted some prices up above for you and I tried to cover other machines for the other guys who may be wondering. Good luck in what ever you do. Dan