Combines Deutz slobbering fuel

brent_56

Guest
We have a 9190 and depending on the fan you have on it there is a little restricter on the opposite side of the fan (left Hand Side) and if that has been removed the cooling fan will run all of the time no matter what the temperature is. You may check and see if that restrictor ring has been taken out. if your fan shut off it would increase your engine temperature in the winter months. If you have more questions email me! Good luck Brent
 

camshaft

Guest
Brent, I found a little plug with a small pin on the end of it. Exactly where is the restrictor ring you speak ofIJ Mine could be missing as the fan runs full speed all the time. TIA..........Orm
 

brent_56

Guest
it should be on a line like a little oil line on or near the turbocharger i need to look at it again to tell you for sure but ill try and get back to you on it. its just like a little washer if its in there.
 

camshaft

Guest
Brent, I took the complete valve off. The little ball won't hold pressure, I can blow each way through the oil ports. The washer was in place on the plug. Can the valve be repaired or am I better off to order a complete valveIJ Thanks........Orm
 

brent_56

Guest
I would definately get a new valve because chances are that the valve is just stuck in the open position and your cooling fan is continuing to run all of the time keeping the engine temperature very low when your tractor is at idle. If you have any questions email me, Brent
 

camshaft

Guest
Thanks, Brent, for your help. Agco's price for a new valve is $950.00 Can. Ouch!!! I'm going to price check with a Deutz parts store tomorrow. Here's wishing you a happy and prosperous 2004.
 

NDDan

Guest
First I would be sure it isn't the hydralic temp sensing circuit that isn't at fault. I have had many many machines with the wrong senders. Sender either grounds or open the hydralic solinoid that allows full oil to blower clutch. You should be able to feel the lines going to that little solinoid on left side of engine just below exhaust thermostat. The lines should remain cool after engine oil has warmed up. I've also found a piece of junk in that valve allowing to much oil to leak to clutch. There was a bullition way back in them years that explaned that that solinoid could be the wrong one but I have only found wrong senders installed. Sender is in a line on top of engine. There is a continuous leak threw the exhaust thermostat so don't let that fool you. Ball will get pushed off its seat when probe swells from high exhaust heat and then it will increase flow to clutch beyond the preset amount. There is parts breakdown for them exhaust thermostats in older Deutz tractor books. I have needed oring after I tear these down. The ball and plunger will wear into each other a bit which will delay when clutch turns on so that be the oppisite problem you are seeing. I've never replaced one of those expensive thermostats for I've figureed out what to do with them when they get wore a bit. I believe the old Deutz parts book shows shims to adjust these but I just plain one of the surfaces a bit to make up for wear in plunger and I just replace the ball. Again I think your thermostat is OK for the problem you have but I thought I would throw that in. Oil is very thick in clutch when cold so you will still need to give it some RPM to get thing warmed up but once you have it warmed up you can idle it back down. If you find the hydralic temp system is causing fan to run full tilt and get it fixed then you need to make sure fan doesn't stop completely at idle when things are completely up to temperature. If it stops completely you'll want to address the wear problem in exhaust thermostat. Good luck
 

camshaft

Guest
Thanks Dan. I think I found the sender you speak of, on top of engine in one of the lines at the oil cooler. If I've got it right the fan speed is controled by oil temp and exhaust temp. Next time I get the tractor out, I'll unhook the wire at the sender and fan speed should slow down with the wire either unhooked or by touching it to ground. I'll let you know what I find. later...........Orm
 

camshaft

Guest
Dan, I found that the solenoid valve works with the air conditioner. That is turning on the a_c energizes the solenoid valve to lock up the fan. I had the solenoid valve apart several times and concluded that the problem was the plunger. Plunger has a hole through it that allows oil to bypass. I thought maybe some pieces missing, but can't find a breakdown in the parts book. I ran some solder into that hole and it appears the problem is fixed. At least the fan runs at slow speed now. Next time I put it to work I'll make sure fan locks up when engine is warm.
 

NDDan

Guest
Somebody modified wiring if it engaged with air conditioning. Solinoid should of blocked off oil completely so if it had a hole it should be fine to block it. I doubt they would supply parts for solinoid. I'd bet you will be OK now but let us know if you arn't. Take care