Combines Deutz V8 Running Hot

we take a bean screen off of an l combine and make a new back door so it will blow the hot air out better. it has made a big difference around here.

We had the same problem till we took out the oil cooler and soaked it in varsoil for a day then laid it on the edge of a tub and washed it several times over aweekend till the water came thru pretty clean. We used a pressure washer. Now our temp. gague never gets past the middle, this is in south Texas with 100 degres every day. Hopes this helps Marv

You can check fan by inserting hose from water manometer in threw air ducting. Run engine up to 2300 RPM until engine is warmed up very well. Anything less than 6" of water will allow engine to run warm. We have also installed a chemney directly behind air intake screen near grain bin. We make it out of 6 or 7" by 12" long tubing. This helps to prevent engine compartment from duplicating an oven. Another trick we started doing this year is vent blowby back into front bank of cylinders. If one does this be sure to use good oil resistant hose and watch condition of air intake hoses. This will likely prevent intakes from losing there clearance. Good luck

You have some very good suggestions but if I were in your socks, I would start with the easy fix. Make sure cooling fins and air passages are clean enough to see through with a trouble light. Cleanliness is next to go=liness when it comes to air cooled engines. (You know what word I wanted to use but the censor didnt like it) Make sure all shields are in place. Earlier this year some guys on this board were talking about opening shields to let air escape. That is just plain lunacy and a quick way to burn up an engine.

Dan, where do you plug in the manometerIJ I would think any location on the PTO end would be best. Do you have a regular purchased manometer or did you make your own out of water-filled tubing. Are you talking about crankcase blowbyIJ Sitting here at my office computer I have to admit that I dont recall seeing a crankcase vent on the R60 but there has to be one somewhere. Thank you.

You can stick water manometer tube in anywhere hose will fit. Most shops will have a water manometer including lawn and garden. You can make one out of tubeing of any length or size. Just have a loop on bottom of hose where the water will be sitting. Measure the difference of water levels and that is you pressure in inches. You do have a crankcase vent to rear stack of cylinders. The naturally aspirated engines have no trouble there for oil in blowby isn't exposed to any hoses with wrong chemical makeup to with stand oily product. If you have trouble maintaining valve setting on front bank of cylinders you could maybe vent to front. Front bank is allways worse for whatever reason and turboed engines are way worse. It must have something to do with hot air in intake and then much hotter after being compressed by turbo. Venting compartment surely reduces temp exposed to air intake system and blowby helps lube the intake valves. Original turboed V8s had crankcase vented to intake but they had trouble with hoses. Hoses were SUPPOSED to be campaigned but should still be monitored close if one makes the crank vent modification. The vent originally went to back set of cylinders which have very little trouble with maintaining intake clearance so I weld barb onto pipe between the last two rubber elbows on front stack. That way I limit the rubber hoses exposed to oil and I get most troublesome intakes lubed. This a very fine outstanding engine in my opinion and I'll find out in a year or two if the valves are holding there own now. One must be very careful doing this mod for if hose comes off or hose rots out you can dust the engine. A guy should suggest to get the injectors and fuel pump tuned within the 2000 hours also. Gleaner has a governer spring kit that should be installed in pump (at least on the turboed engines) while having it done. Take care

Im with marv.You may think that oil cooler is clean until you take it off the engine and give it a thorough soaking and blowing.May have to poke some of those cores out with abit of wire.

Im with marv.You have to take the cooler off the engine and give it a thorough soaking and blowing.May need2 poke some off the cores out with some wire

We had a couple 62 that would heat the oil but head temp light never came on.There is a by-pass valve under the cooler that fixed the problem.Both customers replaced it theirselves,so I cant tell you what kind of a job it is.

Dan, thanks for the detailed explanation. We moved the R60 from the shop to an unheated storage building yesterday before temps started falling so I wont be messing around with it until next fall. I did print a copy of your posts so hopefully I will be able recall what needs to be done. I did have a diesel shop install the governor kit that you mentioned and believe me, the Deutz now runs like an expensive Swiss watch. The galloping that was so common is gone.