Combines Edible beans IJIJIJ

Have you installed the slowdown kit for the clean elevator(which operates the auger in tank also)IJ It is a larger sprocket on the drive which slows down the clean elevator and help reduce cracks. I don't have the part number but I can get it if you need it.

No Kidney but Navy and Pintos. Unsure what may be cracking yours but I'll give you a few tips. Helicals need to be chrome and in good condition thru out. Be sure helicals on top of thresher side are installed. All forward cylinder bars could help a bunch. One trick I have learned over many years of tring different things is to install thick filler bars in concave. If you have low wire grate it would take 3_8" and if high wire then 1_4" thick. I would install in every other space. I'm mentioning cylinder things because you say you are at 250 RPM and not 200. Any grumbling in cylinder will cause cracking. If getting out of cylinder undamaged then the next thing is accelerator rolls. They are turning very fast for fragile edible beans so you may remove paddles from the front tube to prevent throwing down to hard and fast. Slowing up engine to approx. 2000 and reving cylinder back up to 200 will help you determine if it is cylinder doing damage or something beyond. You can run a sample that way to get an idea. We slow up clean grain elevator system for edible beans. We either us the factory kit or weld stub into fan shaft sprocket so we can install a 15 tooth sprocket. Chain runs slightly out of line but no problem. We have also raised bottom clean grain auger so a bean won't get pinched between it and trough. There may be popcorn augers available for clean grain which will give more clearance. I admit I have trimed a bit of flighting with torch to get this clearance. Check beans in hopper and compare with truck. Unload auger in tank can be extended a bit closer to universal joint which will eaze the load on unloader and prevent damage. Unload very close to idle with tins closed down. Sometimes another bean plant will want your beans worse and have saw quite a difference in dockage at times. Hope that helps.

check feed chain speed. had a c62 a couple years ago that we had to run in the slow position.

wouldn't the filler bars trash harder or do you open concave moreIJ Bert

I have all forward bars with the F2 concave in the bottom of the grate ,should it be removedIJ Bert

Does Agco have part listings on a web site somewhereIJ

No the reason for the thick filler bars to get rid of excess aggresion that can roll that bean straw. When bean straw rolls it will grumble the rest of the way threw machine and crack beans that are in the way. I would take F2 bar out to see the difference. I too have a guy that runs feeder on slow for his beans for it seems to feed cylinder better in some conditions and the better you feed it the better it goes. Do you have feeder shocksIJ

yes,but only on the lower feeder. Dealer had installed shocks on the upper chain which worked good in wheat and bean, but in corn they didn't take the slack out of the chian fast enough and the slats would get caught in the rotor and break, don't ask me why. Have you heard of this before or did the dealer use the wrong shocksIJ Don't know what he used,which are the proper onesIJ

Rear feed is the important spot for the shocks. Can't but help the front also. Shocks aren't meant or won't keep slack out of chain. They are to stabilize up and down movement of tention drum. I don't know where your slats could of broken but I'm going to take a guess. I did hear of a guy who installed the second helical from gearbox extention over top left corner of feeder opening. When he did it he had a bolt that was holding his helical to filler piece protruding into feeder area. He did not have the feed chain sprocket strippers installed so when cob got between sprocket and chain it wanted to jump a cog. When it jumped a cog the slat catches helical extention and stressed it to the point of bending the slats and or could break it. Guys need to have rear feed sprocket strippers in place for corn. Since day one I used the shocks that the front of Chevy vans used for years. loewen uses that shock. The number on them was 89015 and believe it has changed to 81108 Rockhill. You might want to check with dealer to see if he used a loewen kit or fabed his own. If it is shock related you should be sure that shock isn't limiting upward travel or something. The guy I talked to about kidney beans one time got to the point of doing a very good job but was having trouble with to much wet dirt on the knifed bean straw so he would end up pluging concave. I believe he ended up removing every other wire from concave and pluged exposed holes from missing wires then dirt wouldn't bother as much. This was a R50 also with old low and narrow spaced wire concave. Good luck.

I was told that the rear feed shocks are installed at such an angle that up and down movement was limited thus the end to end came into play more. Is there a special bracket used to install these shocksIJ Also as I am just learning about rotaries I'm not sure if the sprocket strippers were or were not installed,but I think you are right about the helical bar beening there. I really am glad to have someone to help and give "good" info.