Combines F 3 and edible beans IJ

[bean_grower]

I've cut red kidneys with a l3 and flex and it did a good job with no mods. However I also want to know about using a Gleaner for bean harvest. Where are you located and what typ of beans do you grow.

 

[bacman]

We farm on the north shore of lake Erie in Ontario.In the past, we have grown soybeans and are considering trying to grow a higher value crop being some type of food grade bean.This will only be possible if the F3 can pick this type of bean with out to much damage to the bean itself, because I am not about to update to a rotor combine at this time.

 

[Irv]

Several years ago, a carpet bagger came to Minnesota, and talked several of us into raising great northerns. We used our l2, and a neighbor used his F2. We straight cut, (more diesel per acre than any other operation we've ever done!) and did a very nice job. The F2 did a nice job as well, but struggled with capacity. The F2 guy also raised some navy beans for several years, cutting straight, as well as cutting before the combine. He did not make any modifications to his machine. That guy that came in with his story about how good great northerns were going to be never did make his final payments to us folks around here, and I think he's still in business in Il. Too small an amount to go after, and he knew it.

 

[NDDan]

I havn't been around that little of a Gleaner in edible beans but I'll share some of my experiences. Cylinder may need to run as low as 200 RPM in very dry crackable beans. See how slow you can get cylinder with your setup. Wide rasp bars likely better than narrow but narrow will work. Thresher beater needs to run as slow as possible to prevent cracked beans but fast enough to wraping around cylinder and there are likely different size sprockets to adjust speed. You want to run as few concave bars as possible but enough for good thresh. Maybe the rasp type concave bars work well in edible beans but can't say. Otherwise clean grain auger will work OK as is but may want to raise up if bean is large enough to get pinched between flighting and trough. Paddle elevators will work but bucket likely better. Only remember one bucket elevator around hear in beans and that came with a l2 bean special. Otherwise try not take in any more wet or dry dirt than absolute possible. Also try get beans before they get to dry but not before most all puffy ones are dryed down. Edible beans can be a walk in the park and then again quite the oppisite. Hope that helps

 

[bean_grower]

You may be interested in a Bob Equipment combine. They are built in Western NY and are only used for edible beans. there are lots of used ones around and they are almost indestructable. They are a pull type machine pto driven and range in size from 44" to 66" and have excelant stone protection. if you want more info Email me at krieger4320@yahoo.com Hope that helps Marc

 

[tbran]

keep in mind as the cyl speed goes down you may need to speed up the feeder beater with a 30 tooth sprocket to prevent raddle chain plugging and back feeding . Be sure to raise or remove metal curtain over raddle. For capacity spike tooth cyls were used many years again and if rocks were a problem there was a spring tooth door. Wide spaced bars are almost as high capacity. Unloading at just off an idle is reccommended as well. let us know the progress.

 

[Farmer_Ed]

The F machines do a wonderful job in edibles. We have over 30 years of experience with them and still use them today! We set ours up just for dry beans so they eat them right up! lot's of tricks and mods to make them a great bean machine. Sund Pickup is a must, screen bottom, rock door (we designed most of these things),Spike cylinder using special teeth, Spring tooth concaves (the ones from the factory don't work),Heavy feeder beater teeth, redesigned beaters, angle irons over the raddle chain (never plug it),must have a bucket elevator if your serious about dry bean quality, screens, and many more things if you need to know, let me know! When unloading you better throttle up if the beans are wet!!! We redesigned the sieves and chaffer too and modified the walkers. I know we can do the quality of any Bob Beaner by far, and the capacity isn't too far below a smaller Bob either! Under $5,000 for a Gleaner F compared to a $50,000 Bob Beaner and $15-$16 beansIJ! That's a no brainer! Don't direct cut, you lose too many beans. The F will need major reworking, especially if it's a corn_soy special but it can be done with positive results!