Combines F2 Raddler Chain

Take the slip clutch apart to see if the spring pin thru the shaft is broke. I have had a pin that would have enough friction to move the raddle by hand but under load it would stop. There are pins in each sprocket that drives the raddle chain. If all of the pins are ok then your slip clutch needs more spring pressure or new jaws. Do not grease this slip clutch.

What SD455 said. While you're at it, check the front idlers--located at the very front end of the raddle chain and make sure they are not worn through, and that they line up evenly with the chain fully over the idler--not part way on. Proper tension will help keep the chain going; the optional cob sheild at the rear of the chain keeps cob bits from following around the chain and getting pinned between the chain and the false bottom causing it to jam. As well, adjust cylinder so to leave the cobs whole, as these have less chance of following the chain around. This is a sore spot on gleaners(in my experience) but, properly set up, gives little trouble. Ben.

In addition to the previously good answered posts, you will want to do some other things during the year to keep the raddle area in good shape. At the end of harvest, remove the front raddle idler access door which is under the throat near the pivot shaft. Clean out grain, dust, cobs, etc... and inspect that the idlers are in good shape. If an idler is not rotating or has flattened spots replace both of them and readjust raddle chain. Put the access door in the cab for winter storage. Mice will now have less to eat with that compartment opened up. During the season, re-adjust the tension on the raddle chain at mid-season. This is minimal adjustment and may need more depending on harvest hours, service, crops. By this time the chain is brightened up good and usually needs idlers tightened some. Follow your manual on the proper tension. Too tight or too loose can rip out a raddle floor or snap the drive shaft as things wear or crop gets inside moving parts!!!!