Combines Fan Shaft

Step 1. Remove chains and belts and fan choke rod flat bracket, held on by two bolts, (remember how it was cause it can be put on bass ackwards) and cable. Simple. Step 2. Support the shaft on the lH side, step side, with a jack or other means between the sprocket and the bearing. Slight upward pressure eliminates shaft flex in .. Step 3. Attach a GOOD pipe wrench on the sprocket (it screws on) in the position to hit the handle which is facing FORWARD with a sledge hammer or other large instrument capable of serious damage to you or your watching mother in law, should you miss. Hit the handle a sharp blow and it will unscrew normally as any RH threaded nut would. Remove the lock collar and loosen brg. or take another hammer and bust the outer race of the bearing to allow it to pass through the inner flange. Got to the other side of the combine, all the time thinking " this sure is easier than all the other colors of combines to repair" and remove the large circular plate and then withdraw the ENTIRE ASSEMBlY. Use a puller to remove pulley and rh brg. Remove the snap rings that hold the blades of the fan in. loosen the bolts that clamp the heads to the shaft and presto - 1_2 done. Replace the shaft with the new one which is machined to a factory .0005 tolerance from the Dealer nearest you and reverse the proceedure. After you finish but before you install the drive chain on the lH side to the clean grain auger, install the spring loaded idler system as seen in the upgrades section. Click on tips, then upgrades, then find the picture taken by the worlds greatest photographer and copy it (send no money or check please) so as to remove chances of bending or breaking shaft forevermore. Add about 8 links of chain or just enough to allow chain to be removed WITHOUT taking master link apart. Ask if you have any questions.

You are correct, Tim. Repairing a Gleaner fan isnt very hard. I rebuilt the fan on my R60 last winter by disassembling before removing it from the separator frame. The complete assembly was a bit too heavy for a weak old geezer and wife. I also reassembled it in the separator frame. Weighing each blade and assembling pairs opposite each other may help reduce vibration. Having access to a digital scale that weighs down to 1_2 oz would be helpful. Tom in MN

thanks for the oversite on my part. Balance is important. I assssummed one takes apart and replaces balanced items as a matter of practice. However assssuming is incorrect most times. Your statement as to how handy accurate scales are is correct only on rotating items. Personally I find them a lieing piece of garbage around the house; more so with each passing year. It is kind of like those blue jean labels sizes that shrink every year. Do you notice, as I have, that jean makers never stamp the size of the jean on the little labels on womens jeansIJ I think this is a conspiracy on the part of jean makers who are secretly owned by women - MIl's.

Yes, womens jeans keep getting baggier. Maybe girls dont like being reminded that they really are growing in certain places. A size medium is quite a bit larger than a medium was 20 years ago but the girls dont know that. They can all feel good about squeezing into the same size they wore years ago.

The Chief Money Spender said I was only half right. Or is it half all wetIJ Well anyway, she said she buys my jeans smaller around the middle than 20 years ago even though I have expanded where I shouldnt be expanding. Pretty soon a 300-pound guy will wear jeans with a 28 inch waist. Tom in MN

This combine operator problem (OK TlThe resulting disease is know as furniture disease. Your chest done dropped into your drawers.... Or the dickeydo disease... where your belly sticks out more than your d... Or as I told my MIl " looks like you are fallling off lately... both sides of the chair,,,,

hey tbran whats going onIJ charlie wants to fix his fan ,you's tell him how. but watch ya jean size while ya at it. I was just about to ask about what you's think about extended unloader augers but i think i'll leave that one alone!

wouldn't touch that one with a 10 ' pole!

Your machine probably still has the lighter bearing setup. It is highly recommended to check it or replace with the later style that has 2 ball bearings in the hub. The new fan drive mount has larger bolt holes, but it will mount up with no problem. Be sure and check fan shroud clearance. They installed heavier tensioners on some of the 88's to help stop fan belt slippage. Not all machines have the heavier spring, but we have seen some of the fan drive brgs. go out anyhow. I encourage my customers to change the drive and not chance a radiator.

1500-1700 hrs that's when they tend to let loose. We lost one on our 1688 and it cost about 3000$ to fix, I can't recomend it. The updated fan hub has 10mm holes in the housing rather than the 8mm holes that were in the stock mount. This didn't make me feel very good either but so far it's ran without giving any trouble.