Combines Feeder problems

[acre_eater]

Yes you can replace the solid drum with a hex shaft and sprockets. Agco had a update campain I believe on this at least in our area .If you do it make sure you put the anti wrap shields on to cover the hex shaft. They fit loosely over the shaft and won't allow the crop to wrap on the shaft. Good luck Tim

 

[T__langan]

Do you have the straw guide extensions on the sides of the feeder opening of your headIJ They will move straw further to the center of the feederhouse (past the chains) and are supposed to prevent wrapping of the sprockets. Downside is they also are great to prevent slugs from backing out of the feederhouse if you do plug it! Good luck!

 

[Dan]

Ed, Tom is right about the fairing extentions and they must be installed in wrapping crops. I'm unsure how you can install such a thing onto your CaseIH head that you have fastened to that machine. Acre Eater is also right in that Gleaner did put the hex shaft with anti wrap shields on some machines that were up to a couple of seasons old. I have never welded keystock on more than two slats on the R50's and could be removed if needed in no time. Keystock could aggrivate wrapping but I doubt it. We have keystock on a R72 in the worst wraping condition I have ever seen in flax with no problem. There is a camara in that machine watching that transition area with a screen in the cab and no problems are showing up. The camara was mounted there to watch transition area in the nastiest most massive quantiy wheat straw conditions. The keystock is a very cheap fix to some feeder stopping problems and reports that came back were excellent. Now like in a previous post on feeder problems you will read about the void inbetween the drive sprockets and square tube that is just ahead of drive spockets on R50's. Remove your chain and get yourself a piece of 2" x 4" tubeing and weld into that voided area ahead of sprockets. We weld all the way across the tubes on the top only. Number one is the fairing extentions to header and Number two would be fill in that void. I had a guy from Indiana call last fall where he was plugging that void area in some corn condition. I suggested to him to weld the keystock on and he called back a month or so later to tell me he basically never stopped again for feeder problem. The reason for keystock was a cheap way to try sweep the area in front of the square tube I've been talking about to prevent material build up and then feeder blockage. If you would go back to earlier post you will read about installing a panel in front of that square tube to prevent material build up. Good day.

 

[Rolf]

Ed

 

[T__langan]

Hey Dan - What's up with this camera you talk aboutIJ Is that something you rigged up or is it an AGCO thing on an experimental combineIJ If you rigged it up, where did you get the camera fromIJ How do you get enough light in there to see what's going onIJ If I had one of those that was durable enough to survive inside a combine, I would position it in several areas over time just to see what is going on. One place I'd like to watch on our R52 is the accelerator rolls_distribution auger. We have had problems chipping teeth on our accel. roll gears in corn and I'd like to see what's going on in there. I think it would be very interesting to watch a combine in action from the inside. Sure beats riding in an empty hopper with the inspection door(s) open! I've even thought about removing the tin inspection doors and somehow replacing them with plexiglass so I could watch what was going on in there. let me know where I can get one of those cameras. Thanks!

 

[Dan]

This is a camera that the owner operator had put in his planter to watch for bridging or something like that when seeding flax or canola. I'm unsure where he got the camera setup but I will check with him. He is a whiz at that sort of thing and keeps tweeking until things are perfect. He drills two holes in side of feeder housing and seals a piece of glass over the holes. One hole is for camera lens and one for a light to shine threw. The camera takes a wide angle shot threw the small hole so you can see what is going on over a wide area threw a small hole. The only thing I can think of that will chip gears is the odd corn cob that comes from spreader to tire to gears. Pinch a cob inbetween the gears and maybe enough pressure to crack a tooth. Try hanging some belting to shield the gears. I think tbran did replace panel in hopper with plexiglass to watch what was going on. Have a good one.

 

[T__langan]

Well, we THINK we got the gear problem cured and I'll explain what we did for the benefit of others. We bought this 52 used a year ago with about 450 engine hours. Previous owner had replaced both accel. roll gears - it has the wide 62_72 gears instead of the narrower 42_52 gears. He also had replaced all three gears on the right hand side of the combine. The idler gear that runs between the accel roll and distribution auger runs on a plate that is mounted to the side of the combine with three square shouldered bolts, or at least it is SUPPOSED to be. When the guy put it all back together, he used regular machine bolts. That positioned the plate and idler gear just ever so slightly farther away from the accel roll gear and distribution auger gear and must have allowed enough slop between the gear teeth to cause excessive wear. When the three gears on the right side started to wear, it must have also stressed the accel roll timing gears and caused them to start chipping teeth. We went through three sets of accel roll gear$ since last fall before we finally studied the parts book closely enough to discover that plate needed to be mounted with square shouldered bolts. We also went through and put All new gears on both sides. As soon as we used the square shouldered bolts to mount that plate, the gears meshed perfectly on the right side. As of today, we have run six long days with no wear or chipping. If the problem still existed, it would have showed up already since the new gears we installed last year would start chipping in one day's running. We have only cut beans so far though - corn stresses these gears much more so than beans, especially cob mix. So my advice to everyone is to replace All gears that show even the slightest wear if you have one go bad on you and be sure to use exact replacement parts. We never would have guessed that using the wrong kind of bolts would make that much difference. We were quite worried for awhile that we had a bent accel roll shaft or something major wrong in there. I'd still like to be able to watch what goes on in there though, just for curiousity's sake. Hope this helps someone out sometime....

 

[tbran]

Dan yes I have spent quite a few lungfuls , I mean minutes watching what goes through the cage. Until I dropped it I had a windshield from a junk 7040 that worked better the plex glass. The trip to Ark was the most fasinating event though. The rice was sooo damp that there was no dust. I could watch til my heart was content. It was more exciting than the olympics. (sorry Rolf and all you guys down under, your country is magnificent but when we know who won before the tele shows it ... well.. ) One could really see the heilicals and bars work, and the 2 reverse bar raise hellllo....