Combines First MF combine Need advice

We have a 1979 760 and a 1981 860.We really like the combines.I'm just going over them to make sure everything will be good when combining starts.We use 20ft strait cut headers.Our combines both are with the 354 perkins motor and standard transmission.It would have been better if you bought one with the gray cab.To change the rub bars just disconnect the throot with header and its easy to do the work on the rub bars.You have to take the chain off and two pins,also the clyinders .If you need to no more just post again and I'll reply

We bought an 860 two years ago which had standard drums bars in it which were quite bent. One of them would have had more than half of an inch bend from straight, and many others bent also. We slowly worked at them with the sledge hammer and anvil etc until they were pretty good and have had no trouble with them since. Be sure when you replace them to check that they are balanced when installed.

About the hardest part in changing the concave, is removing the rock trap shaft. This shaft also supports, the front of the concave. Usually it is pretty well set up. One thing to remember, is that where the hex shaft goes through the door. That only approx 2" inserts on each end of the door that are hexed, the rest is open tube. You can drill a small hole just inside of these inserts,and shoot pennatrating oil inside the tube, which will help in getting the shaft out. Joe

You will have to install another pump if you wish to run a hyd pick up.check @ the wreckers to help save some money.

We towed the combine home yesterday. Concaves are totally worn out. We were planning on replacing them anyway. The lip just in front of the concave is worn through in places. Is this part of the concave (havn't taken it out yet)or is it something we will have to repairIJ Variable speed hub has about 1_2 inch of play in it. No wonder the belt broke.

Just a comment on the rock trap hex shaft. The hex shaft is machined down at end to approximately 3_4" round. This round section at each end goes through the front mounts on the concave and then the concave adjustment sliders on the outside. This machining down creates a fatigue site and with many hours being bent due to squeezing swaths through the concave, they magically break from fatique loading, generally in your best crop, just before major rain_snow storm. If this is a high hour machine, put a new shaft in and avoid the agony!!

The tips on this site are mine. I am glad thet were helpful. The $$ amts would be outdated, low, I'm sure by now, but I guess the info would still be accurate. I ran a 750 to over 5000 hrs. It has been a while since I did this, and no longer have Massey's, but you can tap into the steering oil by addind a "t" either on the steering column or right under it below the cab--I can't remember exactly where-- I think I took the metal cover off of the front of the column in the cab to find the place to tap into-- and get oil that has priority flow. You will need to then add a flow control in the cab for your hyd motor. I did this for several years to run a chaff spreader on a 1980 750.

Took off clutch just to see what it looked like. Must have been a grease happy previos operator- not that I am complaining- rock trap shaft and back small hex shaft on concave came out really easy. The whole clutch is completely full of grease. I am suprized it had any friction to drive with! Obviosly clean up grease but should I replace clutch plate as wellIJ Or wait to see if it slips. Where do I get instrictions on resetting linckage- brake IJ