Combines gleaner F any information about it or helpful hints to increase performance

Don't feel bad - in Tn. our Governor isn't doing too well himself after proposing a tax hike... but as to your problem... Take the rod off that connects the gov to the carb. Make sure all linkages are free. Now -and be carefull of moving parts, ie fan and belts, ( a right hand is a terrible thing to loose) ____crank the combine with the throttle set at idle, or have a co-hort do it, and then at the carb. pull open the throttle linkage cable to rev it up. Since you don't have a gov connected don't let it over rev. Gradually increase the rpms. As the rpms come to rated load, the arm on the gov should pull back against the spring. If it does your unit is probably OK. Check the oil in the gov. too! It has been my experience that the rod connecting the carb to the gov. USUAllY needs to be lengthened as wear occurs. The length of the rod is critical. Experimentation on the rod length here on an old combine is usually a part of the fix. Now to the gov itself. The screw that stretches the BIG spring is the high idle rated load. The eyebolt that holds the spring is adjustable and controls the sensitivity. The shorter the distance from the eye to the arm - the more sensitive. and vice versa. A correctly set gov. will rev up to the rated rpm and "hunt" one or twice before smoothing out.

Gleaner F's are great machines in my book. They are balanced well and easy to work on. They do as good of job as any machine out there. I agree with the other post as well. Obviously you have the 292 GM 6 cylinder. THey are darn good motors. I guess when your talking performance, these machines you have to consider are 70's machines basically. You can do a lot to them that can improve perfromance, but you still won't have the capacity of a new machine! It depends on how your machine is set up. What year is itIJ Is it a corn_soybean specialIJ! Starting from the front, do you have all of the teeth in the feeder beaterIJ How about your cylinder, is it spike tooth or raspIJ Check the concaves as well. Make sure the beaters are in good shape. Bearings are a main concern as well. What did the machine do in the pastIJ Make sure the raddle chain is tensioned properly. Make sure chains aren't too tight, otherwise you might bend_break a shaft. Make sure all clutches "snap" in gear. Check the augers for wear. Belts should not be "glazed" or "cracked". Chains should not be worn, and sprockets either! Check that nothing leaks. Grease everything up (don't overgrease though). Make sure the walkers are in the right position for the crop you are doing, and I would get risers on them if they don't have them. Reverse flails on the chopper, if rounded on one side, this is VERY IMPORTANT! You can get many used parts as well as new parts. Make sure all your gauges work too, I rigged all of mine up different when it comes to the 3 green_1 red light. 18 ft. header is huge. We usually run a 15 foot and walk along nicely. Also is your machine a chain driven cylinder or belt, and does it have bucket elevators, or paddlesIJ let me know these and we can go from there. Also, Make sure you have the right amount of oil in the gov. and Also run lead additive with the gas in the engine. Hope this helps for a bit. let me know.

before i got it it was used to cut alfalfa it was hardly ever left out until 3 years ago then it sit outside after that till i got it i dont know what model it is and i dont think it is corn_soybean special all the teeth are there in the feeder beater rasp cylinder i got my front beater out now to rebuild it should i rebuild or find another one any idea how much one costs the concaves are good the bearings are in good shape now i replaced the ones that need it chains and spockets are in good condition belts are getting bad and will need replaced soon it is cabless now but i hope to get one on it before harvest i paid $800 for it did i get a good deal IJIJIJ what are risers straw speader no chopper all guages work the cylinder is belt driven the 18ft worked good i have never used it in wheat yet but in beans it did well i would like to find me a smaller header for beans though just because of it being so big that one ends usually eating dirt and the other not cutting anything it has paddle elevators where do you get the lead additive what does that do thanks for the info

I understand. You can tell how old it is by the serial number. Should be on the left somwhere in front of but around the battery area. You can buy one but you don't know what your getting. It is expensive to rebuild and time consuming (make sure you time it right) and even though you can't beat needle bearings (if it is an old one) only if you grease it often, I would go with the new style rebuild kit. It consists of a pvc-like type material replacing the bearing and it takes up 2 cast iron holders. They last probably as long as the machine, and you don't have to grease them. Depending on how the machine is, I would say $800 dollars is probably a good deal. It would be worth that to make it into a sprayer or something too! Risers are something that goes on top of the straw walkers that help material flow. Also make sure the screens are in the walker, if you run corn. Gauges are a must, so that is good. You can adjust the header floating bar (if it is a hart-carter) or put shims in where it connects on the combine. Make sure you lock the header good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would recomend a 15 foot. Paddle elevators are good,make sure they are adjusted properly (clean grain and return). let me know what you think.

Thought I should mention all the parts for the Gleaner machinnes avaliable through loewen Manufaturing. If you need to replace some of the threshing parts they offer a good alternative to high cost of OE. Check them out.

My Govenor kept leaking oil, I thought the seals had gone out. Found it was just the bolts that hold it together had come loose. Very easy to fix. You just have to lean WAY over to get at them. Good luck.