Combines Gleaner F Clutch

Farmer_Ed

Guest
There are many ways to do this, but I think your best way is to take off tire. You are on the right track. Also make sure where you clutch pedal goes to clutch, on the linkage there is a l shaped linkage rod that has broke on 2 of ours and so we bought a clevis and screwed that on one end and welded on the other so it is a direct pull and should not break. This can be extrememly dangerous. Make sure you line up the clutch good and you should be okay. Hopefully this will be the last clutch that you will have to put in this machine. Some of ours have many hours on and we have never even so much as adjusted a clutch. You just have to know how to drive them and not "ride" the clutch. Good luck.
 

smalltimer

Guest
Thanks for the info. I was hoping there was a way to get the clutch out without removing the tire. Might have to delay this job until I get help..
 

tbran

Guest
reach up into the inspection cover with a socket and remove the six bolts holding the pressure plate, then remove the big nut off the end of the input shaft and the outer pulley. shaft is tapered and has a keyway. sometimes a little heat or puller is necessary, but generally a few taps,don't break anything, will loosen it and it will pop off. Then remove the sliding sheave and canister. Now remove the ubolt and the ring of bolts around the bell hsg. a com-a-long with a sling makes it a one man job. Hook onto the platform. Replace the pplate and clutch and release brg and holder if necessary. when installing the new brg make sure it has a slot for grease and line this up with the hole in the sleeve, and remember to grease it once or twice a season. reverse the process to reinstall. Slide the pplate and clutch on the trans input shaft and then put in the bellhsg. (replace all the brgs in the input hsg, no exception here; if there is any wear on the input shaft where the ineer brgs goes replace the shaft as well) then go through the inspection cover to tighten bolts on pressue plate. Most times don't HAVE to remove the wheel. It depends on tire size and if rim in reversed postion. BE SAFE!!!
 

Rig

Guest
If I remember right the biggest problem is getting the clutch bell housing past the combine frame. I unfortunately had to do this half a dozen times on a machine I used to have. The transmission is mounted on 4 big bolts. Remove all but the upper right bolt and then with the fourth one loosened and a come-o-long or something on the input pulley, lower the entire drive train about a foot, pivoting on the one bolt. Support under the transmission and then remove the bell housing bolts. You will have to remove the drive axles, and shift rods but that is well worth it because you then can remove the input shaft and clutch in one unit. The biggest problem with these machines are the bearings on the input shaft. Make sure they are good or just replace them. You could take the whole unit to a dealer and have them line up the clutch and everything. Check transmission and clutch disc splines for wear. Can cause clutch to release poorly. Been there. Done that.
 
 
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