Combines Hard starting machine

[Soy_Breeding_Boy]

My F2 w_433I Was having problems last year. The local mechanic said to pull the injector pump and send it in. The Diesel repair place said there were a couple of springs broken and they replaced some o-rings. $400 and it runs like a champ! PJ

 

[Burbert]

Your hard starting engine sounds exactly like our l2. I go to the ether each and every morning, the engine runs rough as heck for some time before settling down, then starts okay for the rest of the day. I am considering putting some type of block heater in, but can't figure out where it would be mounted. The parts book show such a heater, but doesn't describe it's installation!

 

[tbran]

The early 433I's had low 15.5 compression. later ones like your F3 should have th higher compression pistons, smaller hole tips etc. Even with all this, the fact is they were not the best starting engines mainly due to still low 16 to 1 compression. No the ether is not auto. You have to press the ether button WHIlE cranking. Yes a block heater is available . It comes with a tube to the oil cooler and is different from the 6 cyl version. 74008014 was the heat element n. 71284073 was the kit. The late engines were equipped with DUAl air heaters as an option. IF the batteries were good this worked well. The block heater is the best remedy. However- The trick used by some dairy farmers here where the temps don't get too cold is to remove the ether nozzel and close the hole down via punch to about half size of origional. This still lets enough ether in but one will never hear the associated knock as with most ether assisted starts. The ether switch is wired hot so as to allow the ether to continue to be used for a second or two after starter is released to allow time to heat the cylinders via compression and ignition.

 

[Southpaw]

We had a 1983 F3 with the turbo 4 cyl. You really had to spin it to start it in the mornings. Rough running and smoking the whole time. Then it would crank fine after it warmed up. When it was really cold (frost on the ground) when cutting soybeans, we would pull the tensioner back and flip the main drive belt off the engine before cranking it the first time. That way there was no load on the engine and it would spin much faster to aid in starting. let run for a few minutes till the temp. gauge started to move. Then cut it off and flipped the belt back on. Never had to use ether to start it this way. A little bit of a pain but only took a few extra minutes. Dealer told us when we got it that these engines tended to be cold natured.

 

[jj]

My F2 starts much better after switching from 2 six volt batteries to 2 12's and cleaning the connections. This engine needs to spin fast to start. Installed one of those tank coolent heaters for the cold days though. Jon

 

[Mark]

Get the block heater ! Hard starting cold engines is a trademark off Allis engines. However as long as I plug my 7000 or F3 in for about 45 minutes prior to starting they both start like a champ every time.

 

[ewbeye]

Rock, I put about 2000 hours on an 84' F3 while doing corn plots for Asgrow back in the 1990s. It started just like yours, very cold natured. It helped to have 2 good 12 volt well_charged batteries in it for starting. 105 amp alternator was minimum and had to be charging 13.5 volts and higher or not good on electrical system. Remember the F3 is all about electrics over hydraulics and magnetic clutches, so the electrical system takes a beating. On frosty morning, it took 4 times [10 seconds each] before it would start hitting on one or two cylinders. Ran rough for about 30 seconds afterwards, then fine for the rest of the day. I never used ether in fear of the damage it could cause in the cylinders. In the late 1990's, we inherited a 1986-87IJ f3 model from another of Asgrows branches. It must have had the air intake heater or a better fuel pump_injectors on it cause there was no comparison between the two combines. The later machine would just start right up with no problem.

 

[ROCK]

I have not heard of the air heaters to help start. ExpensiveIJ Can get yetIJ Works fine it sounds. I am away on some fields for a block heater (although sounds good) and do not want to use ether only as a last result. The starter is a 12 V Japanese...can one go to 2 12Volt batteries with this OK. I just don't get electrical stuff very well. The machine has less than 2000 engine hours on it. Thanks for everyones input!

 

[SD_455]

The block heater goes in the block about inline with the top of the starter. On the battery deal just hook both + together and both - together.

 

[tbran]

EZ - l2 426 - locate oil filters , put your hand on the lH filter, go up to the middle of the housing it screws onto. The go left 6" and locate the BIG plug. Unscrew it and screw in the H20 heater. With eng cold, loosen the rad pressure cap then put it back on. Place a gallon plastic bucket under the plug, coat the heater threads with teflon paste and back out the plug and VERY QUICKlY switch the heater for the plug. You can catch 90% of the spillage if you are good! Other wise you have to drain the block and radiator.