Combines HElP ROTOR GEARBOX CRUNCHING TEETH

There is an elaborate explanation in the service book on removal through the grain tank. But the real tricky part is lining it up when you reinstall it. I just hope I dont ever have to do it as it sounds complicated. Good luck. Tom in MN

STOP BEFORE IT'S TOO lATE. NEW GEAR BOXES ARE 5-6 THOUSAND. A DEAlER IN INDIANA USUAllY HAS REBUIlT FOR HAlF.

I had the gear box off of my N7 a few years ago to put in a new bearing. Don't know if you need to take the rotor out as I already had it out putting on new bars. I did not take the elevator off to get the gear box down. Went into the grain tank and cut a small hole just above the gear box and attached a come-along and lowered it down. I do remember that I had to do a lot of twisting to get it out.

I'm going to bet that shaft or shafts got a little loose in box. Tooth contact is not right when shaft gets to loose. We have found loose shafts on these early machines not because bearings are wore but because bearing race wore into snap ring or snap rings bent a bit ect. We run synthetic oil in gearboxs and failures have went down to nill as long as shafts had excess endplay removed. We have a couple new boxs in shed and they are collecting alot of dust. I hope you are lucky and can get by with a couple gears and fresh set of bearings.

Thanks fella's Got gearbox out. Was'nt that hard once sheaves were off by using tool to compress top pulley spring to get snap ring out .then unbolted sheaves,unbolted clean grain drive pushed mounting up to get sheaves out. Did'nt have to remove elevator. Removed cage door motor concave side .Then able to reach inside bolts but they undid easy. Two of us then slid it out and down.It was heavy so will use engine crane to put back in. Coupling looks ok gearbox not so good. High gear lost tooth (teeth) then its popped the top bearing mount high gear side ,cracked casting. So looks like new gearbox housing and high gear,bearings seals. There is some bits around at wreckers so will no today about a housing. Second hand high gear $500.00 aus. Snapped selector rod two. Dan which oil are you usingIJ I change it every year and put in a gear additive but only using mineral gear oil 80_90. So do you shim to remove end play or something. Having dealer Reset gearbox ,if i get bits. Only took 1 hour to remove and after looking around at other brand headers in the workshop still glad i own a gleaner. Think i'd like a spare gearbox.Next time I'm in US would like to take one of them dust collecting gearboxs off your hands Dan.Does'nt seem to be enough bits round here. Previous owner had gearbox out before but dont no why.Its done 2000hrs total so i'm guessing dodgy assembly for failure ah who knowsIJ Thanks again will post any developments . Peng.

We have used Amoco and Mobil 75-90 synthetic. The thickness of snap rings is what sets up endplay in shafts.

Thanks Dan. Wrecker has a couple of complete boxs which is good . HE's five hour drive away. Will rebuild making sure endplay is ok and put some of that oil in it. She will run again.A bad but good experience I think that is the last bit i did'nt know anything about.Am now enlightened. What tricks do you employ on them welch plugs on that gearboxIJ They seem to weep a bit. Have you heard of the gear selector rod going to far and popping the one out behind it. Mechanic here spot welds a washer on over it so it cant come through. Never heard of that one. Thanks Dan . Unfortunately here Gleaner knowledge seems to be fading. I must thank this sight too,Cheers Fella's Peng.