Combines help tips on installing a roter

We put skid steer in front and rope and come along in the back and it actually goes in pretty easy.

We use a forklift. We take a chain and hook it to one of the rasp bar holders about halfway down the rotor, then hook the other end of the chain a foot or so above the front of the rotor on the forklift. This helps hold the back end of the rotor up and keeps it from tipping off of the forklift. Then place a timber or pipe acoss the opened hood area in the back with a come-along on it. Use the forklift and chain to get the rotor up to the combine, then hook the come-along up. Once you get it started, you will have to unhook the chain at the forklift. Push slowly with the forklift and pull with the come-along. Use prybars under the open concaves and grates to help if the rasp bars get hung. Sounds a lot harder than it is.

do you leave the covcaves and grats in or do you take some of them outIJ The open area you mention in the back I guess when I looked at the combine all I could see was the splined drive, It didnt look that openIJ Is there somthing to removeIJ Haven got the combine home yet so I cant go look at it.

When you open the engine compartment lid, there is a cover bolted to the top of the rotor gearbox mount. Take that cover off and that is where you send the comalong cable down to the rotor.

I agree with Old Pokey... the come-along method is very simple. I remove my rotor at least anually during winter maintanance. Most of the time I have to work by myself, so it really can be a one man job. Start the rotor in with a cherry picker, moving the lifting position forward as it goes in. I made a little framework that fits over the access hole at the drive-end of the rotor which has a little pulley on it so the cable can make the corner. lay a 4 x 4 accross the engine compartment to anchor the come-along. With a little wiggleing and plying it will go right in. like Old Pokey says, its simpler than it sounds. By the way... if you ever have to take one out, stay clear and make provisions to hold it back.... I've had one slide right out onto the floor, knocked me down. I was lucky. Just another thought learned from my experience.... be sure you install a new or at least a known good drive hub on your rotor. If it is not true, it will cause the rotor gearbox and pulley to wobble. This can cause serious problems. I learned the hard way. Good luck.

Anytime a rotor is out,crawl up inside the cage to inspect the vanes for any bent or broken ones. These are the "threads" that "screw" the crop mat through. If they are rounded off,they should be replaced.Heck,just put in a new set and be done with it,and keep any decent existing ones for spares.This the best time to do it;very simple with the rotor out. There are a few things like this with rotors where it does not pay to get by cheap. While you are up in there,take a can of Never-Sieze,and lather up the spline shaft on the gearbox.That can also be done from the top,but I prefer to make sure it gets done during the inspection phase so I don't forget it during the intensity of re-installment. One other tip for aligning the back of the rotor,I have heard of using a small floorjack laying on the auger shafts to raise the back end. BTW,it is helpful,if not necessary to remove the middle concave and grate sections,so you have better control.Some people use sheets of tin,or 2X4's to let the rotor slide on. The rotor is heavy,and somewhat awkward,so be safe,and in control of where the rotor is going at all times.Good luck.

We take out the center concave and center grate to give access to the rotor as it's going in. We run rice spikes and they will hang in various places. A man on the side can pry on the rotor as its going up to unhang it when needed. like old Pokey said, under the hood in front of the engine, there is a sheetmetal "doghouse" which sits just forward of the rotor driven pulley and gearbox. Remove the top of this structure to gain access to the splined shaft and to run cable though. I put a length of drill stem pipe across the opening where the hood goes, with a 2x4 under each side to keep from bending the sheet metal. I attach the come-along to this. While the rotor is out, check it over well. Make sure all the rasp bars are in good shape. Check ou the elephant ears. Also take the splined hub off the back and check out the splines and rubber bushings. Replace if in doubt, as this can cause bad vibrations if worn. Also check out transition cone, transport vanes, and rotor cage for wear. Vanes are very important. Also, look at the seal on the splined shaft coming out of the rotor gearbox. If its leaking, now would be the time to replace. I don't see how these guys change the rotor by themselves, we usually have 3 men. But however you do it, remember that thing is heavy! Make sure you shim the front behind the bearing so that there is little clearance between the elephant ears and front bearing support. And put in a new front bearing, whether it needs it or not!

When you get the machine home take a good look around and give another post. Those shims that Deadduck is talking about are very important and they serve a couple of purposes actually. I wish we could post pictures here but that bracket PETERBIll is talking about is a deffinate help. Maybe he can explain further if you decide to make one. You can get by with out it but it sure makes things nice if you're by yourself. If your dealer that you're getting the machine from has one, make them let you use it as part of the deal. They should also let you look at the service manual for the machine. It gives you a pretty good idea as to what's involved. By the way are getting the new parts or the used parts that you mentioned in your earlier postIJ