Combines HElP WITH F

I believe your clutch has dirt in the pack. I had the same problem. I used an air nozzle to blow out the hard to get to places. I can't recall exactly where the dirt causes the problem. I know that it is in the hard to get to and see places. Check with your Gleaner Mechanic. My memory is shot.

Check the shaft that goes from the cab to the separator clutch to see if it has been twisted. When that happens it reduces the amount of travel in the engagement mechanism. We have welded a piece of angle iron on the backside of the shaft to stiffen it after getting it straight. These clutchs can be a pain to get to feel and act right on older machines( I owned a 76 F for many years). If the clutch stays engaged and isn't slipping and the only problem is it doesn't feel right you may want to do what I finally did in the same situation, declare victory and go work on something else.

It sounds to me that you have your settings about right. Three channels on the concave is about right to start with. Clearance and cylinder speed sound good too. Chaffer I would say at 1_2" to 5_8" so you're in the ball-park there as well. If you replaced it, it should have all new parts on the inside then. Are you sure you got it together rightIJ leaving something out as simple as a spacer can be night and day in difference. I would disconnect the linkage at the seperator clutch and then by hand (using crescent wrench or something) try snapping it in. If it does snap then the problem is in your linkage. If it does not snap, then it is in your clutch. let me know and we'll go from there.

It has been many years since I replaced that bearing. It is a pretty good job. I believe that we took the tire off. It depends on whether your tires are turned out to wide or in for narrow. One thing that you might check for the vibration is the chopper bearings. That is, if your machine has a chopper. I had a vibration that came from the chopper. It caused my fuel tank to rupture twice before I figured out the problem. It also happened to a friend of mine. Steve

Sounds like it could be the variable speed. That can get to be pricey. Those hubs and shafts are machined sets, We did a K2 a few years ago. I still remember the "warm fuzzy feeling" from that one. In all probability it will be necessary to pull drive tire. We dropped trans once rather than pull tire assembly. Not one of my better ideas.

One other little thing to check first, is the belt tightIJ My F will do just what you say if belt gets worn enough. Most likely because variable speed is getting worn.

Other guys are correct. Detailed intructions are posted previously as to remove the main input shaft. It is easier t do with the tire removed but be safe. Before removing tire remove clutch inspection cover and remove clutch pressure plate bolts. Then remove bellhousing as assy. Take it to a dealer to overhaul or someone who has done one before. Probably gonna need a shaft and brgs. As to vibration, no the feeder beater won't cause vibration. As posted chopper, shaker shoe , or cylinder will be the culprit. Remove the drive belts one at a time to isolate . Probably goning to find cyl. out of balbance. Remove top cover and check for dirt buildup unevenly on backside of bars. If not remove drive belt and roll cyl. If it has a heavy spot add weight to top side (insert longer cyl bolt and add washer or any heavy item that can be SECURED) till no one sopt settles.

If this is a straight F, not F2 or F3, the traction drive is noisy, period. If the vibration you have is only with separator engaged the clutch shaft, bearings are probably all right. From what you wrote you need to tighten the traction belt before you ruin it. Basically you will be moving the combine main shaft rearward until you can insert a hacksaw blade between the driven sheaves on the clutch shaft. Tighten draw bolt with the bracket and bearing flanges bolts loosened on main shaft. The problem in replacing the clutch shaft, if you have to, is that the bell housing is next to the frame. You will need to lower the front of transmission (left) to get the bell housing and clutch past the frame. Forget taking off the tire, doesn't help. Best way, in my opinion is to remove drive shafts and shifting rods from transmission and then remove all but the top right support bolt (just loosen this one) and carefully lower transmission till you can get entire clutch shaft, housing, sheaves, and clutch off as an assembly. I probably have done this a dozen times on the older F's. This is a chronic trouble area for these machines. Replace the thresher beater, if it has a piece missing, as it turns the same speed as the cylinder. It also will effect threshing and bar wear if it is not doing its job.

check belt tension i once had the thresher beater loose a piece and it virbated like crazy