Combines Help with wheat

[mo_farm]

I don't know what you have your concave set at but if you are grinding the straw it sounds like you need to open it up a little. And I would speed the cylinder up to around 900 or so. This should help the growling noises also. Also if the concave is too tight the wheat won't go into the cylinder and will back feed down the feeder house chain and the get thrown into the reel. Try putting new air filters in and see if the light still flickers. As for the spreader light make sure the bearings are good because if one goes out the spreader will still spin but not as fast as it should and you will also eat the gears up that drive the spreader. My 62 is not hyperized so I can't say if the mods will affect wheat harvesting but I don't think that they would hurt.

 

[silver4life]

Oedie I think I know what you mean. Didn't you trade a F3 for the 40. I bought a 42 on a sale but still have our F3. I had the same experinence that you are having the first year with our 42. Had a 315 also notice I said had! If you are having problem with capacity do just opposite that you would with the old F. If rotor growls defintly speed up. If grain cracking and tough straw open up, get the ideal. I have found that what I knew before with oln3 doesn't work with the deuce. If you understand that I'll be amazed, heck I just read it and now I'm lost. Any way about the head is the auger down and back and are the flarings in the head to narrow the throat down, much needed on smaller machines. Second are the two a match pair, Even feeding starting at the head is a n1 priority on these beasts. As far as speed you will have to get it feeding well first and dependant on amount of straw but you should top 3.5 easily. I ran 4.8 in 60 bu. wheat with -.5 dump out the back but that is with new 816. The only mod I have done on mine is the shock kit, very nice by the way. By the way I was running next to a 1680 when started but never seen him back till dust settled. No I wasn't behind either!!!!!

 

[R_O_M]

Hyperising works just about everywhere including S.E Australia in cereals. First, get rid of those standard paddles and extend the rasp bars on the lH. end of the rotor as per many previous posts and" Hyper mods." This enables material to quickly clear the rotor and prevents material from repeating back down the front elevators from an over loaded processor. It also prevents grinding up the straw, and rapidly separates grain from the thin layers of straw that are going thru the processor. Next; Put in the triangular piece and helical section over the concave door. After that, mess around with the thresher bars. All colours have problems sooner or later with feeding on the front in Oz. Make sure the header is not sagging on the ends i.e There is the same or more clearance under the auger in the centre than the ends. [ We had to replace the very light back sheets with heavier ones, on our early 500 series, 30 ft flex to prevent end sagging.] It overcame some problems. An Agco option for Oz was" 24 inch" pitch auger flight instead of 30 in.This apparently gives excellent feeding according to the lucky owners. The"30in" pitch is too steep in some conditions and drags material over the top of the auger. The material usually starts to come up the back of the auger about 3 ft each side from the elevator due to insufficient clearance under the centre flights, rusty, or sticky bottom sheets, repeating down the elevator or crop leaning one way. A heavy stiff rubber flap bolted onto the front, across the elevator opening and running on the top of the auger to prevent repeating over the auger really helps.[ See a steel version in Hyper mods.] Crop lean can be fixed with light 3_8 in steel homemade crop lifters_ dividers designed to tip the heads towards the centre, and on 12 to 15 in. spacings can make a huge difference to feeding. Sorry for the long post ! Hope some of this helps!

 

[Rolf]

G"Day Oedie86 We have a 94 R62 with 30 ft flex 500 front, It's main crops are all small grains, (wheat, barley, lentils ect) We have got 95% of the hyper mods from this web site, and I would not go back to a factory set machine!!!! I would recommend the following for any small grains! (Cereals) 1. Double cut knife or four finger guards or both 2. 50 to 60 mm pvc tube or similar attached along the front just behind the knife. 3. Dans extended auger flighting in the center of table auger. (or, we use John Deer lupin Breakers!!!!) 4. Add a couple of feeder chain links so as to get your feed chain closer to the TA. 5. Shock kit a must on both front and rear feeder drums. 6. We have removed our stripper plates from both front and rear feeder sprockets. 7. Hump kit on thresher door. 8. Concave closed down to less than 3 mm at front when top back is touching highest rasp bar, and dead level!! 9. Third helical across feeder opening. (I would recommend Channel helical over key stock type helical!) 10. 1_2 inch Rasps on thresher side 3_4 on separator side and All forward rasps bars. 11. Every second concave rod removed if it's that old type concave and sep grate, (we have I think! over and inch gap between rods in our concave! it might be only 3_4 but it's a lot bigger than standard, I will have to check that one!) 12. Extended helical in to discharge area, and extended every rasp bar in to discharge area as well, with paddles on ever second rasp bar. 13. Must have excellent accelerator rollers, or you can get aluminium ones made up! 14. Increase fan speed and slow down clean grain and repeats elevators. (fan by 5-7% and repeats down by 24 %) I have most likely forgotten some thing that someone else can pick up for me but most of what I have said can be done in a couple of days at most or some of them out in the field to get you started!! Hope this helps some whatIJ but please lets us know how you get on!! Rolf PS: Get the front to feed nice then the rest will follow better!

 

[Dan]

like others have suggested, start at the front. There was only a couple times I tried to cut wheat with a 300 flex and that was a very long time ago before learning any tricks. Very bad experience. Starting at the reel I would get plastic bats that can be bolted over pickup reel teeth or better yet air reel$$$$$. Then just behind sickle install tube like Rolf suggests. If straw then keeps coming over auger, after polished up, install channel iron under auger just ahead of front stripper. Extend channel to area just ahead of feeder chain on both sides and there is a row of rivets that you can use. Filler pieces used to narrow up opening for these small combines need to be installed neatly with no areas for straw to snag on. Be sure that approx. 5 of the far right fingers are removed. There is a adjustable filler on floor between header and feeder and it must be adjusted to fill gap and knocked to provide smooth transition between auger and chain (very important). Now if you got all that working right and combine is hungry for more and the straw is standing in front of auger fingers to the point it is leaving uncut or stripped straw in center you need to address that area. When we got to that point with these older heads 300, 400, 500 series we extended 4" flighting all the way to centerline of feeder area. There is likely 2" or 2.5" on your head now but not extended to center line. I first tried 3" and then 4". I didn't extend to center line at first either. You must go with 4" and extend to centerline. Anyway you get the idea on what you could do to get 300 flex working in wheat and some of these tips will help in other crops also. A rigid 300 or 400 will have less trouble as well as 500 for there sickles are closer to auger. I believe feeder shocks are a must even after you get your header working. loewen has shock kits for these older machines. Got to go for now.

 

[doc_m]

If you came off a F combine, they need straw in the process to thresh well. The R is a different story. You now need only the heads and load it up and turn up the wind. I have a factory R62 with solid header, no hyper goodies. I found the less straw the better. You run faster, load the shoe and turn up the air to produce the cleanest sample going. I have neighbors who plant the seed direct without cleaning. Good luck.