tbran
Guest
Well as a dealer, of course I never did this, buttttt. ...I have heard rumors of one taking a 10 MM socket and removing the 4 bolts that hold the not quite square metal plate on the end of the fuel pump. This is on the lower part of the rear or lH end of the pump viewing from the ladder entrance. There is or was I heard a safety wire with a lead seal on it that ran through two holes in the bolt head. One carried a coffe cup size container and a rag to catch the oil that came out when the plate was removed. Then those scoundrels, using a 10MM box end wrench, locate and loosen the nut which secures the max fuel stop bolt which is the one in the middle viewed from the rear end , which has the slot in it for a flat screw driver. Don't screw with the other bolt. Insert the screw driver and hold in position while losening this jam nut. Then turn the stop screw IN approx 3_4 to one round. Snug the nut and replace the end cap, safety wire and lead seal if your unit is still inwarranty,,,, uh, never mind that step now. Also check to see if the no load high idle is 2700RPM. (2690-2710) As with any incease in fuel setting WATCH the TEMP. The deutz has an oil temp gauge - if this increases much first check the cooler - the big square one next to the oil filter. We have had to use mig wire to clean some out as the owners sometimes think that since there is no water these units have no radiator - this is the raditator. Check the air to air intercooler as well - blow through both and see if every core is open. Make sure the head temp works, if not fix it. Removing the wire or grounding it will leave the light and buzzer working. IT works off ohm resistance as a trigger. The engine harness disconnect is usually the culprit area to look for if the light will not go out and the unit is good. We have actually run a separate wire to the module rather than try to find a weak spot in the harness. What we are seeing with these engines is the metal shield on the back side of the cylinder jugs has not been removed and cleaned around the lower push rod tube and jug area. Expecially under the turbo . Material builds up here and over the years will cause hot spots and will cause the lower seals to seep. We usually remove the cover and then cut it in two pieces to make it super easy to remove from then on. It can be slid to the flywheel end initially with a slight bending in a couple of places.. do this once a year. The setting of the stop screw is not an exact science. Sometimes a half round is enough, then again a round and a half is needed. Don't go overboard. Hyping the processor reduces the HP requirements and is the more economical way to go first. As in the old series, Mission Impossible - "if you or any member of your crew are caught or captured in this operation, we will disavow any knowledge of your actions" 